rdj

rio... woooow!!!
szerencsere lebeszeltek arrol, hogy este jojjek rio-ba. igy delelott erkeztem.
a buszpalyaudvar egy kicsit sokkolo volt: emberek fekudtek a foldon mindenfele, koldusok es keregetok, akiknek en potencialis penzforrasnak tuntem... a nyugis kisvarosok utan egy cseppet bizonytalannak ereztem magam... de aztan bebuszoztam - ropke 2 ora alatt - a varosba, illetve ipanema-ba, ahol hamar egesz mas kep fogadott. rio-ban megint csak az tok jo, mint la paz-ban: hogy egyedi. ocean, tengerpart, napsutes megfuszerezve a hegyekkel, es mindez tropusi eghajlaton! (:

volt Krisztus-szobor, ami sokkal kisebb, mint a kepeken latszik, es persze fel volt alvanyozva az egesz; botanikuskert, ami egesz jol nez ki egyben, de unalmas, ha darabjaira akarom szedni; tengerpart, amihez nem kell mit mondanom; ernyosok stb.

annyira furta az oldalamat az ernyozes itt, hogy csak-csak kimentem megkeresni a leszallot. innen pedig egyenes ut vezetett ahhoz, hogy kovetkezo nap mar az ernyommel menjek ki. gyorsan kerestem egy embert, akitol tudtam fuvart es beulot berelni (ugye az enyem eurok formajaban utazik tovabb velem), es irany a starthely! felertem, atverekedtem magam a regisztracion, kicsomagoltam az ernyot, es mar a buko a fejemen volt, mikor jott valaki , hogy adjak neki valami papirt. mondtam, hogy nincs. de anelkul nem lehet repulni. ah, mondom, hurra! merthogy starthelypenz kell, es csak lent lehet fizetni a leszalloban, ahonnan negyed oraja hoztak fel... hiaba vetettem be minden rabeszelokepessegemet (persze portugalul :P), nem tudtam meggyozni oket sem a dij elengedeserol, sem az utolagos fizetesrol. igy irany az autoba, le a leszalloba, penz kiperkal, vissza a starthelyre es vegre lehet menni. kiteritettek nekem, es nagyon segitokeszek voltak egyebkent. meg fotosom is akadt, igaz a kepek meg nem ertek el hozzam...

maga a repules nagyon szep volt, bar egy deka emeles nem jott, az ernyo meg sem mozdult.. de a latvany megerte a penzt es idot, amit ezert a 15 percert bele kellett feccelnem...

aztan vegigbuggy-ztunk rio tengerpartjan. wooooooooooow... egyszer csak a buggy megallt. hehe, kifogyott a benzin. :P a tobbiek betoltak az autot a buszmegalloba, es elindultak benzinert. rogton jott a rendor hozongve, hogy mit keresunk ott. mondta, hogy nem lehet ott allni, inkabb eltol minket egy benzinkutra. igy a buggy-t szirenazva toltak be az elso benzinkutra... ((:

aztan volt maracana, egy allitolag igazi rivalis meccsel: vasco - fluminese. nem volt nagy tomeg, de a hangulat jo volt, es vegulis a vasco nyert 3:0-ra. ez is megvolt, a vasco vicces keresztes mezevel egyutt :D

favella tura: sokat ragodtam rajta, hogy befizetek egy favella-turara, mert nagyon erdekelt, de bennem volt az ellentmondas, hogy miert is menjek oda szegeny emberek nyomorat bamulni?!? es hogy a befizetett penzzel vajon tenyleg segitek-e nekik? es miutan a buszbol kozelebbrol lattam a favellakat, azt kell mondjam, hogy ugyanugy neznek ki, mint la paz. csak ott az egesz varos ilyen. igy nem is ereztem, hogy kihagytam volna valamit. raadasul az utolso napok autozasai folyaman annyi favellan athajtottunk, hogy igazabol mar orultem, amikor vegre kihajtottunk onnan...
felfedeztunk meg nehany turistamentes tengerpartot es kajaldat, de mivel most epp modemes neten nyomulok, igy minden kepet nagyon tessek megbecsulni...

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rio... woooow!!!
luckily i was convinced not to come to rio in the evening, so i came in the morning.
around the terminal it was full of beggers and homeless people all around, to whom i was a potential money source... after the small towns in the countryside it was a bit shocking, so i was about to leave the area as soon as possible. the picture of ipanema - which i reached in a short 2-hour bus drive - was much different.
rio is again as unique as la paz was. ocean, beach, sunshine spiced up with mountains covered with mata forests and a hot, humid weather! (:
i saw the Christ, botanical garden, beaches, paragliding etc.
i was so curious about paragliding in rio, so that i went to the landing spot. from this moment it was not a question, that on the next day i should stand there with my glider. i found someone who gave me transfer and i could rent a harness from (mine is sold), and up to the take-off. i managed to registrate, got my canopy opened up, when someone came and asked for some more papers. uff, i have nothing more and i dont understand what they want from me. yeah, but they say i cannot fly without that - that was actually the take-off fee, which i should have paid at the landing spot i just came up from. great! i tried to convince them to pay later or such, but no results... so back to the car, back to the landing spot, pay, up to the mountain again... otherwise they were extremely nice and helped in everything. i even had someone to picture my flight. i hope i will get the picutres one day (:
the flight itself was amasing!!! no lift at all, but the view was spectacular!!! even a bit of favella tour from the air.
then we drove along the beach of rio in a buggy. wooooooooooow... at one moment the buggy stopped. hihi, no more petrol. :P the others went to take some petrol, but the police turned up and offered them to push the buggy to the next gas station instead of standing there on the road. so we got there with a police car sirening behind us (: then maracana stadium, a so told rival game: vasco - fluminese. there was no full house, but the athmosphere was great, and vasco scored 3 goals, in their funny shirt with a huge cross on it (:favella tour: i was thinking about it for a long time, as i was really curious. but i was full of contradictions if it would be ok to go to a tour where i see really poor people... and if i really help them with the money i pay?!? anyway, after seeing some favellas from near, i have to say, that they are the same asa la paz. but in la paz the entire city looks exactly like this. so i really did not miss anything. especially because in the last few days i drove through so many-many-many favellas, that by the end i rather wanted to get rid of them, and noit visit them again... we discovered another few hidden beaches and restaurants, but as i use modem internet at the moment, so appreciate all the pictures...

brazilia folytatas / brasil going on

wow, ez a het... kepzeld el magad, hogy reggel felkelsz, eledrakjak a reggelit, utana fel a starthelyre, kajalas, ismerkedes es eszosztas a tobbi pilotaval, jegbe hutott kokusztej iszogatas a kokuszbol, felhofigyeles es joido-varas, ernyokihajtas, izzadas, leeges, startolas, repules (!!!) es leszallas - neha a dzsindszas legkozepebe. 7 napbol kettoszor sikerult a kijelolt leszalloba szallnom... :Pdelutan strand, varosban maszkalas, aszai kajalas (amazonas gyumolcsbol keszult edesseg), aztan gps lejelentes, barbecue parti, ettermezes, sorozes, eszosztas ujra es ujra, kuzdelem a portugal es nemet nyelvvel, ismerkedes a brazil kulturaval es az emberekkel (ja, es a nemetekkel, mert egy vegyes tarsasagban landoltam).

irnek meg szivesen, de nincs ertelme. at kell elni...

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wow, this week... imagine yourself waking up in the morning, got your breakfast, then up to the starting spot, food, drink, hanging around with all the pilots from many countries, sharing experiences and asking for advice, ice-cold coconut milk from the coconut, observation of the clouds, waiting for the good weather, opening the glider, sweating, getting burned, starting, landing - sometimes in the middle of nowhere. i managed to land in the right spot twice out of the 7 :P

in the afternnon swimming pool, hanging a bit in the city, eating acai (fruits of the amason), then gps download, barbecue party, reastuants, beers, sharing the day, fight with the difficulties of the portuguese and german language, getting more near with the brasilian culture and people (and some german, as we hanged around together).

i would love to write more, but there is no point. you have to experience it...

parapente

33 kilo cuccal (ernyo, 2 hatizsak) a 43 fokban elindultam governador valadares fele. a buszut csak 18 ora volt, mar rutinbol megy... :Pleszalltam a buszrol, rogton akadt egy helyi lany, aki felajanlotta, hogy elvisz autoval a leszalloba, ahol rogton bele is botlottam a magyar csapat egy reszebe. ugyhogy semmi kaland nem akadt a hotel megtalalasa kozben. eloszor (:
mert elmentem netet keresni. az egesz egy szigeten van, ami viszonylag kicsi. de - mint azt mar regota tudom - a tajekozodas es en nem vagyunk joban egymassal. ugyhogy masfel oramba kerult, mire visszatalaltam.masnap irany fel a hegyre. szokasos startpara, ami a hosszu kihagyasok utan lenni szokott... mindegy, lenyeg, hogy a levegoben voltam vegre! mondtak, hogy a hidnal van a leszallo a folyo masik oldalan. en azonnal belottem a hidat, mint celt, es egy 20 percnyi bemelegito repules utan mentem is leszallni. mar egesz kozel jartam, mikor meg mindig nem lattam, hogy hol is van a tegnap latott (egyebkent jo nagy) leszallo. ernyo egy szal sem a kornyeken, igy a legbiztonsagosabbnak itelt zold mezo fele vettem az iranyt. ekkor mar tudtam, hogy ez a hid nem az a hid volt... :P:P:Pazt mar fentrol lattam, hogy a terulet korbe van zarva, de hogy ennyire... kb masfel orat gyalogoltam es masztam keriteseken at, tehenek es lovak kozott, mire vegre jott valaki egy kismotorral, es bevitt a varosba.
ma mar betalaltam a leszalloba, igaz csak epphogy :P
a kovetkezo cel, hogy biztonsagosan landoljak (:

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with my baggage weighting 33 kilos (glider and 2 packpacks) in 43 degrees i took thebus to governador valadares. only 18 hours, already for fun :P
got off the bus and a local lady immediately offered me to take me to the landing place by car. there i met the hungarians (nothing at all was organized, but all came up very well). so i found the hotel without problems - for the first time...
because i went to find internet. the hotel is on an sland, which is relatively small. but - as i already know it for a while - navigation and me are not the best friends... (: so it took me one and a half hours to get back to the hotel :P
next morning up to the hill. as usual, i had a fear of the first day and the first start as i had a long time without flying. anyway, i started, i finally flew again!!! i was told that the landing place was next to the bridge on the other side of the river. i immediately saw the bridge, and after 20 minutes of warming up fly i started landing. i was quite near, when i still could not find the landing spot. no gliders around... shit! so i faced to the biggest and safest green field and started landing on my own. by that time i already know, that it was another bridge :P:P:P
i already saw from the air, that the field is closed around, but that sooo much... i walked (trekked) around for more than an hour, climbing up and down, not finding anyone at all but animals. finally a guy with a scooter found me and took to the city...
today i already landed in the correct place, but very near to the river... :P
the target for today is a safe landing (:

utso napok peruban / last days in peru

ejszakai buszt meg ilyen jot nem fogtam ki: mintha egy repulo lett volna. kaja, film, takaro - ez utobbi a fagyos buszok utan kifejezett orom volt. azert ezek utan is mindig halozsakkal megyek a buszra. biztos, ami biztos :P
az ejszakai buszozas utan jott egy lazabb nap, igy vegre utolernem magam a kepek feltoltesevel stb, de ma sikerult elhagynom az usb kabelem. 2000 ft-ert tudnek venni itt egyet... hurra! (:
a mai nap a homokduneke volt. (Koppany, amikor kiloszamra kopkodtem ki a homokot a szambol, nem egyszer jutott eszembe a francia dune (: )de ez most buggy volt es sandboarding. szerencsere a sofor nem volt szivbajos, es tolta neki. valami olyan volt, mint egy hullamvasut, vagy hasonlo. nehanyszor megalltunk egy-egy domb tetejen, onnan lecsusztunk - ulve, fekve vagy allva -, aztan a domb aljan osszeszedtek bennunket. persze allva nem nagyon ment, estem-keltem. de hat minden kezdet nehez. lenyeg, hogy az egesz emesztorendszeremet kipucolja a sok homok, amit nyeltem (: utana egy kis uszomedence, napozas, teknos a hostelben... (nem is kicsi!!!)
a kovetkezo nap elmentem a csorok galapagos szigetere (islas ballestas), ahol volt egy csomo allat - pingvinek, oroszlanfokak, kormoranok es meg egy csomo, amit nem ismertem fel -, amiket jo turistahoz meltoan 63 kulonbozo szogbol lefotoztam...itt izelitot kaptam peru igazan szegeny oldalabol is. a nehany, turistak szamara epitett szallason kivul csak mocsok, szemet, budos es nehany takolmany van arrafele. eleg lehangolo... ):ma este lima, de csak izelito, epphogy ujra lassam a csendes-oceant. holnap reggel indul a repulo vissza brazilba. hat igen, mar a fele elmult...

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this was the best ever night bus i have had until now. like an airplane: movies, food, drinks, blanket - knowing the average temperature of night buses this is a big advantage. still, i will always take my sleeping bag with me on the buses. just to be on the safe side :P
after the night bus there was a lighter day, so finally i wanted to upload all the pics, but of course i lost my usb cable and i could only buy one for 10 euros... hehe
this day way for the sand dunes:
but this time it was sand buggy and sandboarding. luckily the driver was not scared and gave speed to the buggy. it was like a rollercoaster or something like that. sometimes we stopped on the top of a dune and went down with a sandboard: sitting, laying or standing. when standing, of course i felt quite a few times, but it was still fun. anyway, my teeth are cleaned with sand now (and even my digestive system) (: after that a bit of swimming pool, sunbath, turtle in the hostel... (not even a small one!!!)
next day i went to the so called ´galapagos for the poor´ (islas ballestas), where we could see plenty of animals - sea lions, penguins, guano birds, tendril and i dont know how many others... as a good tourist i made picture of all from 63 different angle...here i got a taste of the real poor part of the country. except tourist resorts everything is smelly, dirty, unfinished, poor, mainly depressing... ):
today it is lima, but only for a few hours. just to see the pacific ocean again... tomorrow a flight back to brasil. yeah, that is right, half of the trip is already over...

MMMMMMLXXV

eloszor is, megettem egy tengerimalacot. tudom, tudom...

kicsit fura volt latni a fogsorat, de egyebkent finom volt.

es ilyen kilatas mellett foleg (:

de a lenyeg: 6075!!!!

es a neve: CHACHANI

embertprobalo, kokemeny, hideg, izzaszto, vegelathatatlan, de gyonyoru, lenyugozo, kihivas es legyozheto!!!

miutan nem sikerult a la paz melletti huayna potosi meghoditasa, nem hagyott nyugodni a gondolat, hogy akkor is meg kell maszni egy hatezrest. es hat ime, belevagtam. reggel indultunk, egy utnak nem nevezheto helyen felvittek minket 5000 m korulre, ami magaban 2200 m szintkulonbseg (siman fejfajas...). aznap meg 2-3 orat gyalogoltunk felfele satorral, halozsakkal, 5 liter vizzel, kajaval stb a hatunkon. kaja - mar aki tudott enni - utan 4-kor takarodo. azt mondtak, nem lesz hideg, ennek ellenere a satram igy nezett ki:

ejjel 1-kor termeszetesen, mert akkor keltunk. 2-kor indulas a csucsra. a szakmabeliek ezt a csucsot tartjak az egyik legkonnyeb hatezresnek, de ha ezt egy laikus mondja nekem, akkor eloszor massza meg, utana beszelhetunk... :P

volt minden, ami kell: szikla, ho, hideg, szel, napfelkelte, jegeso, fejfajas, csoki, kokalevel...
5800 fele az egyik turavezeto megkerdezte, hogy vagyok. mondtam, hogy faj a fejem es hulla faradt vagyok, egyebkent minden ok. ekkorra kicsit lemaradtam a csoport tobbi tagjatol, igy a vezeto azt mondta, hogy forduljak vissza. mert allitolag nem hallgatok az utasitasaira, es azert maradtam le. hiaba mondtam neki, hogy epp csak nem tudtam jobban 'rohanni' az adott pillanatban. persze masok is lemaradtak elozoleg, de oket valamiert mindig megvartuk.
lenyeg, hogy mondtam neki, hogy 280 m-rel a csucs elott nem fogok visszafordulni. osszeszedtem minden maradek eromet, es nagyjabol elsokent ertem fel (:
a masik turavezeto tok normalis volt, es vegulis mindenben segitett. 6 ora alatt fent voltunk, ami egesz jonak szamit.

mikor mar csak 20 perc volt vissza, lattam, hogy nem lesz gond, ez tutira meglesz. ugyhogy az utolso 20 percet vegigbogtem, reszben az orom, reszben a megkonnyebbules miatt... (: (megjegyzem, igy meg nehezebb volt maszni :P)

persze ezzel meg nem ert veget minden megprobaltatas, mivel a lefeleut kicsit nehezebb volt, mint altalaban lenni szokott. 4 orat jottunk lefele, mikozben a satrat es minden egyebet is ossze kellett pakolni. azt hittem, sosem fogok odaerni az autohoz...

lenyeg, hogy megvan, es csodalatos volt. mi mast tudok irni? a tobbit latnotok kellett volna...

az mar csak hab a tortan, hogy a hostelben aznap nem volt viz este 10-ig. que bueno! (:

masnap levezetokent egy 2-napos turara indultam canon de colca-ba. ez rogton egy hajnali 3-oras indulast jelentett. nehany ora buszozas utan nekivagtunk a 8-oras gyaloglasnak 40 fokban, hol lefele, hol felfele. fotoztunk kondort (tok mazlink volt, mert volt a kozelben egy doglott szamar, igy a kondorok ott koroztek nehany percig, ami egyebkent egyaltalan nem megszokott - mondjuk, lehet, hogy a turavezeto rakta oda a doglott allatot, hogy odavonzza a kondorokat a mi kedvunkert :P)

ezt amugy en fotoztam (:

egy oazisban aludtunk, uszomedencevel, haznak nem nevezheto valamiben - allat volt!hajnali 5-kor (minden nap 2 oraval tovabb alhatok!!!) nekivagtunk a 3-oras hegymenetnek, laza 1200 m szintkulonbseget letudva, kb 3 perccel ebredes utan, termeszetesen reggeli nelkul.

megint hagyom a kepeket beszelni magam helyett.

most megyek es kialszom magam egy 10-oras buszozason a kovetkezo celig. ((:

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first of all: i ate a guinea pig. yeah, i know, i know, but still... it was a bit weird to see the teeth, but otherwise it is pretty delicious (:

and with a locally dressed waitress:

but now the most important is: 6075!!!!

and it is called: CHACHANI

challenging, ruthless, cruel, cold, sweating, neverending, but gorgeous, beautiful, impressive, spectacular and doable!!!

after the failure with huayna potosi near to la paz i could not sleep well any more without a 6000+ summit. so the only thing i could do is to try another one. we left in the morning on a something what i would not call a road. they took us up to ~5000 m, which is already 2200 m altitude difference (immediate headache...). on that day we still had to climb 2-3 hours with tent, sleeping bag, 5 litres of water and food in our backpacks. then food - for the ones that were able to eat - and time to sleep at 4 pm. i was told that the weather is not that cold. despite my tent was covered with ice by the middle of the night.

yes, we woke up at 1 am. in an hour we started climbing to the top. mountainclimbers say that this is one of the easiest 6000+ peak, but if an average person tells me this, then i first ask them to climb up, and then we can talk... :P

we had everything we could have: rocks, snow, cold, wind, sunrise, icerain, headache, chocolates, coca leaves...

around 5800 m one of the guides asked me if i was ok. i told him, that i was totally exhausted and had a headache, otherwise everything was perfect. by this time i was a few meters behind the group, so he suggested me to turn back. and he also claimed that i had not followed his instructions. i tried to convince him, that this was the maximum speed at that moment i could go, and we always wait for others, when they are slower, so i did not really understand his problem. but mainly i refused to turn back just 280 m before the top.

i gained all my power and more or less reached the top first (:

the other guide was really nice and helped me a lot. we reached the top in 6 hours, which is a good time.

when we only had 20 minutes left, and i saw that i go well for sure, i started crying till the peak, both because of the happiness and the relief i had... (:

(i have to comment, that this way it is even harder to climb :P)

of course this was not the end of our tortures as the way down was another 4 hours, and not only downhill. not at all. additionally we had to pack our tents and carry the big backpack with us. i had a feeling that we would never reach the car again...

anyway, i did it and it was amazing! what else can i write? you should have seen it all...

funny at the end, that the hostel had no water when i returned, until 10 pm. que bueno! (:

the next day - just for eduction - i went for a 2-day tour to canon de colca. we immediately started with a 3 am pickup from the hostel. some hours on the bus and we started climbing for 8 hours in 40 degrees, sometimes uphill, sometimes downhill. we took pictures of condors (above). we had luck as there was a dead mule nearby so the condors were flying there for a while, which is not common at all. maybe it was the guide who placed the dead animal there for attracting us. :P

we slept in an oasis, with swimming pool, in a lodge - it was cool!!!at 5 am (every day i can sleep 2 hours more!!!) we started another climbing for 3 hours, strictly uphill, without breakfast, just 3 minutes after waking up... ((:

again i let the pictures tell more:

now i need to go and sleep a few hours on the 10-hour long bus drive till the next location ((:

inca, inca, inca

most minden inka. romok, a kola, a kavezo, a netezo hely, a szallas, es persze a buszok is. de hat ez van, peru es kesz.
nincs idom irni, inkabb csak feltoltok nehany kepet. tobbit majd kesobb...

now everything is inca here: ruins, coke, net cafe, hostels, buses etc... but yeah, this is peru.
i have no time to write, so rather upload some pictures:

(a tobbi / more at: http://picasaweb.google.com/emese.reinhardt/)

soteraszok / salt terraces:

vacsi cusco-ban / dinner in cusco:

shopping:

ja, a helyi buszokon naagyon budos van. de hat ha low budget, akkor... :P
o, es meg egy erdekesseg a buszokkal kapcsolatban: tobbnyire az elso 10-20 percben direkt marketing van, de nagyon kemenyen. Norbi, ajanlom figyelmedbe nemelyiket, jo sales-es lenne beloluk. de a legjobb a tegnap esti volt, amikor is egy gitaros (tuti nem gitar, de nem tudom mi) es egy enekes volt a buszon, es a kinai szinhazakban hallhato nyervogos eneket adtak elo, mig en aludni szerettem volna (:

oh, and the local buses are quite smelly. but if one is on a low budget... :P
and one more thing on the buses: in the first 10-20 minutes there is a direct marketing show selling every little things to us. but the nicest wasa the one from yesterday, when a man with a kind of - for me unknown - instrument and a lady had a performance when i just wanted to sleep. it was more like the chinese theathre´s squeaking songs... (: