final ´steps´ / utolso ´lepesek´

a cim nem egeszen talalo, mivel lepni nem tudok, csak egy labon ugralni ((:

felraktak a buszra, ami elvitt sao paulo-ba. 8 ora, de elviselheto. persze esett, nehogy veletlenul egyszerubb legyen a hazajutasom. bar ekkor meg nem tudtam mindent...
Elanie kijott ertem a buszhoz (utolag is ezer koszonet!!!), szerzett tolokocsit, egy utolso açai, pao de queijo (sajtkenyer?) es suco es irany a repter. torott labbal annyi az elonye az embernek, hogy nem kell sorbaallni, hanem soron kivul odatoljak a becsekkolo asztalhoz. ahonnan persze rogton el is kuldik...
kerdeztem, hogy miert. hat hogy nincs hely a labamnak, tele van a gep, nem tudom vizszintesen tartani az ut alatt stb. es egyebkent is, hogy gondolom, hogy gipszben akarok repulni?!? de ha gyorsan veszek egy jegyet business classra, akkor semmi akadalya az utnak. mondtam nekik, hogy napok ota levelezek veluk, es hivogatom oket, es mindenki biztositott arrol, hogy nem lesz gond a repulessel. erre most azzal fogadnak, hogy plusz 200.000-ert vegyek egy masik jegyet...
ennek meg is lett a hatasa. felajanlottak, hogy masnap repulhetek ugy, hogy nem kell rafizetnem semmit. egyetlen feltetel, hogy a gipszet le kell szedni indulas elott. (ugye ollot vagy hasonlot nem lehet felvinni a gepre, hogy ha problema van, akkor ott szedjuk le) ugyhogy irany a korhaz (elotte 2 ora telefonalas a biztositoval, aki nem tudott egy epkezlab valaszt adni arra az egyszeru kerdesre, hogy melyik az altaluk tamogatott korhaz, ahova menjek), gipsz gyors lefureszelese, es kaptam egy leszedheto csizmat, ami tartja a labat.
masnap ujra megprobalkoztam a repterrel, immar tobb sikerrel. felengedtek, mindenhol soron kivuli becsekkolas, bar igy sajnos a duty-free shopping is kimaradt (azert a repulon potoltam :P). 3 helyet kaptam egy sorban, igy egesz konfortosan utaztam. igaz, az elso nehany oraban a bokam csak nott es nott, es sehogy sem talaltam neki jo poziciot. kiderult, hogy a tevem se jo, aludni sem mertem... remek 11 oranak nezek elebe. aztan valahogy akklimatizalodtam, egy full restart utan filmet is tudtam nezni, es lenyeg, hogy hazaertem egeszben. (:

de jojjon egy rovid osszefoglalo az elmult ket honaprol. ez az ut hihetetlen volt! del-amerika tenyleg idealis hely a hatizsakosoknak! es ebben az utban minden volt, aminek egy utban lennie kell: -10 es +42, henyeles es komoly fizikai megprobaltatasok, siker es kudarc, egyedullet es nagy tarsasag, nyugis ucsorges es hatalmas partik, ehseg es nagy zabalasok, hegyek, oceanok, sivatag, ernyozes, hegymaszas, turazas, varosnezes, korhaz, olcso hostel es uszomedences szalloda, konnyek es mosoly...

es a top10+ (mert csak tizet nem lehet kiemelni):

- felerni 6000 m fele, es megbizonyosodni arrol, hogy fel tudok menni a csucsra

- Rioban a leszalloban jeghideg kokusztejet iszogatni- vegigautozni buggy-val Rio-ban az ocean partjan
- egy dollarert 3-fogasos ebed
- "A" csillagos eg
- fuggoagybol nezni a tavat a palmafak arnyekaban
- nem erteni portugalul

- kondorokat fotozni

- kilos kajalda

- focizni 3700-on
- barbecue parti naponta ketszer

- reggelire kokusz, papaya es suco (frissen facsart gyumolcsle)
- jeghideg aszai (açai)
- nem telefonalni ket honapig
- gyumolcsok: acerola, fruta do conde, caju, khaki, goiaba, maracuja es meg sorolhatnam...
- kapni egy magyar zaszlo rajzot egy 7 eves kislanytol
- kismajmokat nezni reggel a szallas ablakabol
- a fold voroslo szine
- vezetni Rio-ban

- es az az erzes, ami ott, akkor fogott el fenn a hegyen, 5200 m magasan, ejjel, hidegben, amikor kizartam magam a menedekhazbol. nem tudtam, hogy milyen veszelyek vesznek korul, hogy eleg meleg van-e ahhoz, hogy reggelig kihuzzam, hogy vannak-e vadallatok stb. es akkor az ember fejeben a legrosszabb is megfordul. es akkor azt ereztem, hogy ha itt es most vege mindennek, akkor is elegedett vagyok az eletemmel, nem banok semmit, nem hianyolok semmit - jol eltem az itt toltott idot. es igen, ez az az erzes, ami miatt erdemes volt megvenni a repjegyet... (:

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the title is not totally correct as i cannot step, but rather only jump on one feet ((:

i got the bus to sao paulo. it took 8 hours, mostly survivable. of course it was raining, so it was even harder to get from point A to point B. even though at that point i did nothing...

Elanie picked me up at the terminal (thanks again!!!), got me a wheelchair, i had my last açai, pao de queijo and suco, and left to the airport.

when you have a broken leg, you also have the privileges not to queue the line, but check-in without waiting. but my check-in was refused...

why? because of the cast of course, and that they have not enough space, and it is dangerous etc. anyway, how do i dare to think that i fly with a cast?!? but if i buy another ticket or upgrade to business class, then there is no problem... i started arguing with them explaining, that i have called and mailed them for a week, and everyone confirmed that i would not have any problem. finally i convinced them that this is not the way. so i was offered a next-day flight without extra charge. the only thing required is to remove my cast. (as i am not allowed to take scissors on board to remove the cast). so back to a hospital, cast removal and i got a temporary one to hold my leg.

next day i had another try at the airport, this time it was successful. check-in without queuing, but i had to miss the duty-free shops (anyway, i compensated it on the plane :P). i had three seats in one line. in the first few hours my ankle was growing continuously, and i had no clue what to do. my lcd did not work either, so i had a feeling that the next 11 hours would not be the best in my life. but somehow everything turned ok, the lcd got restarted, so the aim is that i am at home without problems. (:

let's have a short summary on the last two months. this journey was unbelievable!!! south america is really ideal for backpacking! and this trip included everything that has to be included: -10 and +42, doing nothing and working hard, success and failure, solitude and amazing fellowship, sitting in silence and huge parties, hunger and stuffing, summits, oceans, deserts, paragliding, climbing, trekking, sightseeing, hospitals, cheep hostels and hotel with swimming pool and ac, tears and smile...

and the top 10+ (because it is hard to pick up only ten):

- to reach the altitude of 6000 and make sure that i can do it

- drinking coconut milk after landing in rio
- a full lunch for 1 dollar

- THE sky at night

- to watch the lake from a hammock in the shade of the coconut trees

- buggy in rio on the beach

- soccer at 3700 m
- not to be able to speak portuguese

- 'kilos' restaurant

- barbecue twice daily

- breakfast (as never at home): coconut, papaya, suco

- ice-cold açai

- no phone calls for two months

- the fruits: acerola, fruta do conde, caju, khaki, goiaba, maracuja...

- to get a picture of the hungarian flag from a 7-year old girl

- to observe small monkeys in the morning from the window

- the red colour of the soil

- driving in rio

- and the feeling, which i had there, up on the mountain at 5200 m, at night, in cold, when i locked myself out from the rest-house. i had no clue what dangers might be around, if it is warm enough to survive the night, if there are wild animals around etc. and in such a case the worst also crosses one's mind. and at that moment i felt, that if the end might come now, then yes, i am satisfied, i have no regrets, i dont miss anything - i lived well. and this is a kind of a feeling why it is worth travelling... (:

hospital santa isabel, uba

lassan vege az utnak, holnap indulok haza. gondoltam, kell egy kis kaland a vegere... elmentunk repulni. sajnos a leszallas nem ugy sikerult, ahogy terveztem. egy godor keresztbehuzta a szamitasaimat, es a bokam reccsenesebol arra kovetkeztettem, hogy egy kicsit varnom kene a csomagolassal.
rogton jott a segitseg. megneztuk a bokamat, egy hangyanyit nagyobb volt, mint a masik, igy maradtam a fenekemen. (no, nem mintha ra tudtam volna allni...) jottek a mentosok, felpakoltak egy hordagyra, be az autoba, es irany a korhaz.

termeszetesen egy kisvarosban voltunk, ugyhogy a korhazban a nover elso kerdese az volt, hogy mi a fenet csinalok en ott a vilag vegen, hisz nincs ott semmi... persze a repules rogton mindent megmagyarazott (:

szoval jott a varakozas - kozben hoztak egy lott serultet, a kisvarosi lovoldozes egyik aldozatat: no comment! -, aztan rontgen, es a diagnozis: egy kisebb tores. wow, mondom, hurra. a legjobbkor, kulfoldon, hazaut es koltozes elott. na, mindegy, jojjon, aminek jonnie kell. legalabb muteni nem kell.

begipszeltek meg minden. az egyetlen hianyossag, hogy nincs mankom, igy ugrabugralok mindenfele fellabon. a lepcsokon kicsit nehezebb... ja, es meg nincs felfestve a gipszre a brazil zaszlo, amit surgosen potolnom kell ((:

addig is egy idezet Coelho-tol a Zarandoklat-bol, ami annyira ideillik (sajnos csak angolul tudom idezni):

“When you travel, you experience, in a very practical way, the act of rebirth. You confront completely new situations, the day passes more slowly, and on most journeys you don’t even understand the language the people speak. So you are like a child just out of the womb. You begin to attach much more importance to things around you because your survival depends upon them. You begin to be more accessible to others because they may be able to help you in difficult situations. And you accept any small favor from the gods with great delight, as if it were an episode you would remember for the rest of your life.
At the same time, since all things are new, you see only the beauty in them, and you feel happy to be alive.”

holnap repules haza, elotte meg bemelegiteskent egy 8-oras buszozas. de ezt meghagyom az utolso blogbejegyzes temajanak...

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soon it is the end of the journey, tomorrow i am leaving. i thought that i needed some adventure by the end... so we went to paraglide. yeah, the landing did not succedd as i wanted, and my ankle got stuck in a hole and gave a weird, and actually not nice sound... so i came to a point, that i should wait a bit with the packing of my canopy.

the help came immediately. we checked my ankle, and it was mainly doubled, so i stayed (not that i could move anywhere because of the pain...). the ambulance came and took me to the hospital.

of course it was a small city, so the nurse in the hospital first asked me what the hell i am doing there as a tourist as there is not much to see there. but paragliding was a clear answer to all her questions. (:

so waiting and waiting... while a patient was taken with a shot in his back (small city fight in brazil, that´s all...), then x-ray. and the result is: my ankle is broken. wow, perfect timing! before travelling home, before moving to a new apartment. anyway, whatever have to happen, i let it so... at least no surgery needed and notin the beginning of my trip.
i got a cast. but i still have no crutches, so i jump on my left leg anywhere i have to go... a bit harder on the stairs...

until then a quote from Coelho from The Pilgrimline, which fits my situation perfectly:

“When you travel, you experience, in a very practical way, the act of rebirth. You confront completely new situations, the day passes more slowly, and on most journeys you don’t even understand the language the people speak. So you are like a child just out of the womb. You begin to attach much more importance to things around you because your survival depends upon them. You begin to be more accessible to others because they may be able to help you in difficult situations. And you accept any small favor from the gods with great delight, as if it were an episode you would remember for the rest of your life.
At the same time, since all things are new, you see only the beauty in them, and you feel happy to be alive.”
tomorrow is my 22-hour flight home. plus as a warming-up, an 8-hour bus drive just before that. but let me leave this story as the last post of this blog...