2010. március 6., szombat

MMMMMMLXXV

eloszor is, megettem egy tengerimalacot. tudom, tudom...
kicsit fura volt latni a fogsorat, de egyebkent finom volt.
es ilyen kilatas mellett foleg (:
de a lenyeg: 6075!!!!
es a neve: CHACHANI

embertprobalo, kokemeny, hideg, izzaszto, vegelathatatlan, de gyonyoru, lenyugozo, kihivas es legyozheto!!!
miutan nem sikerult a la paz melletti huayna potosi meghoditasa, nem hagyott nyugodni a gondolat, hogy akkor is meg kell maszni egy hatezrest. es hat ime, belevagtam. reggel indultunk, egy utnak nem nevezheto helyen felvittek minket 5000 m korulre, ami magaban 2200 m szintkulonbseg (siman fejfajas...). aznap meg 2-3 orat gyalogoltunk felfele satorral, halozsakkal, 5 liter vizzel, kajaval stb a hatunkon. kaja - mar aki tudott enni - utan 4-kor takarodo. azt mondtak, nem lesz hideg, ennek ellenere a satram igy nezett ki:
ejjel 1-kor termeszetesen, mert akkor keltunk. 2-kor indulas a csucsra. a szakmabeliek ezt a csucsot tartjak az egyik legkonnyeb hatezresnek, de ha ezt egy laikus mondja nekem, akkor eloszor massza meg, utana beszelhetunk... :P
volt minden, ami kell: szikla, ho, hideg, szel, napfelkelte, jegeso, fejfajas, csoki, kokalevel...
5800 fele az egyik turavezeto megkerdezte, hogy vagyok. mondtam, hogy faj a fejem es hulla faradt vagyok, egyebkent minden ok. ekkorra kicsit lemaradtam a csoport tobbi tagjatol, igy a vezeto azt mondta, hogy forduljak vissza. mert allitolag nem hallgatok az utasitasaira, es azert maradtam le. hiaba mondtam neki, hogy epp csak nem tudtam jobban 'rohanni' az adott pillanatban. persze masok is lemaradtak elozoleg, de oket valamiert mindig megvartuk.
lenyeg, hogy mondtam neki, hogy 280 m-rel a csucs elott nem fogok visszafordulni. osszeszedtem minden maradek eromet, es nagyjabol elsokent ertem fel (:
a masik turavezeto tok normalis volt, es vegulis mindenben segitett. 6 ora alatt fent voltunk, ami egesz jonak szamit.
mikor mar csak 20 perc volt vissza, lattam, hogy nem lesz gond, ez tutira meglesz. ugyhogy az utolso 20 percet vegigbogtem, reszben az orom, reszben a megkonnyebbules miatt... (: (megjegyzem, igy meg nehezebb volt maszni :P)
persze ezzel meg nem ert veget minden megprobaltatas, mivel a lefeleut kicsit nehezebb volt, mint altalaban lenni szokott. 4 orat jottunk lefele, mikozben a satrat es minden egyebet is ossze kellett pakolni. azt hittem, sosem fogok odaerni az autohoz...
lenyeg, hogy megvan, es csodalatos volt. mi mast tudok irni? a tobbit latnotok kellett volna...
az mar csak hab a tortan, hogy a hostelben aznap nem volt viz este 10-ig. que bueno! (:

masnap levezetokent egy 2-napos turara indultam canon de colca-ba. ez rogton egy hajnali 3-oras indulast jelentett. nehany ora buszozas utan nekivagtunk a 8-oras gyaloglasnak 40 fokban, hol lefele, hol felfele. fotoztunk kondort (tok mazlink volt, mert volt a kozelben egy doglott szamar, igy a kondorok ott koroztek nehany percig, ami egyebkent egyaltalan nem megszokott - mondjuk, lehet, hogy a turavezeto rakta oda a doglott allatot, hogy odavonzza a kondorokat a mi kedvunkert :P)
ezt amugy en fotoztam (:
egy oazisban aludtunk, uszomedencevel, haznak nem nevezheto valamiben - allat volt!hajnali 5-kor (minden nap 2 oraval tovabb alhatok!!!) nekivagtunk a 3-oras hegymenetnek, laza 1200 m szintkulonbseget letudva, kb 3 perccel ebredes utan, termeszetesen reggeli nelkul.
megint hagyom a kepeket beszelni magam helyett.
most megyek es kialszom magam egy 10-oras buszozason a kovetkezo celig. ((:

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first of all: i ate a guinea pig. yeah, i know, i know, but still... it was a bit weird to see the teeth, but otherwise it is pretty delicious (:
and with a locally dressed waitress:
but now the most important is: 6075!!!!
and it is called: CHACHANI
challenging, ruthless, cruel, cold, sweating, neverending, but gorgeous, beautiful, impressive, spectacular and doable!!!
after the failure with huayna potosi near to la paz i could not sleep well any more without a 6000+ summit. so the only thing i could do is to try another one. we left in the morning on a something what i would not call a road. they took us up to ~5000 m, which is already 2200 m altitude difference (immediate headache...). on that day we still had to climb 2-3 hours with tent, sleeping bag, 5 litres of water and food in our backpacks. then food - for the ones that were able to eat - and time to sleep at 4 pm. i was told that the weather is not that cold. despite my tent was covered with ice by the middle of the night.
yes, we woke up at 1 am. in an hour we started climbing to the top. mountainclimbers say that this is one of the easiest 6000+ peak, but if an average person tells me this, then i first ask them to climb up, and then we can talk... :P
we had everything we could have: rocks, snow, cold, wind, sunrise, icerain, headache, chocolates, coca leaves...
around 5800 m one of the guides asked me if i was ok. i told him, that i was totally exhausted and had a headache, otherwise everything was perfect. by this time i was a few meters behind the group, so he suggested me to turn back. and he also claimed that i had not followed his instructions. i tried to convince him, that this was the maximum speed at that moment i could go, and we always wait for others, when they are slower, so i did not really understand his problem. but mainly i refused to turn back just 280 m before the top.
i gained all my power and more or less reached the top first (:
the other guide was really nice and helped me a lot. we reached the top in 6 hours, which is a good time.
when we only had 20 minutes left, and i saw that i go well for sure, i started crying till the peak, both because of the happiness and the relief i had... (:
(i have to comment, that this way it is even harder to climb :P)
of course this was not the end of our tortures as the way down was another 4 hours, and not only downhill. not at all. additionally we had to pack our tents and carry the big backpack with us. i had a feeling that we would never reach the car again...
anyway, i did it and it was amazing! what else can i write? you should have seen it all...
funny at the end, that the hostel had no water when i returned, until 10 pm. que bueno! (:

the next day - just for eduction - i went for a 2-day tour to canon de colca. we immediately started with a 3 am pickup from the hostel. some hours on the bus and we started climbing for 8 hours in 40 degrees, sometimes uphill, sometimes downhill. we took pictures of condors (above). we had luck as there was a dead mule nearby so the condors were flying there for a while, which is not common at all. maybe it was the guide who placed the dead animal there for attracting us. :P
we slept in an oasis, with swimming pool, in a lodge - it was cool!!!at 5 am (every day i can sleep 2 hours more!!!) we started another climbing for 3 hours, strictly uphill, without breakfast, just 3 minutes after waking up... ((:
again i let the pictures tell more:
now i need to go and sleep a few hours on the 10-hour long bus drive till the next location ((:

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