death road + peru

la paz meger meg nehany szot. mert ez egy olyan varos, ahol:
- nincs egyenes ut
- nincs befejezett vagy bevakolt haz
- a buszok hatuljara vagy Jezus kep vagy meztelen nok vannak festve, mas opcio nincs
- ha eltevedtel, csak el kell indulnod a volgy fele, es onnan mar pofonegyszeru tajekozodni
- minel feljebb laksz a hegyen, annal olcsobb a lakas
mindezek ellenere eleg volt az egy het, amit itt dekkoltam, foleg a nem tervezett napok...
nekiindultam a ´death road´-nak (http://www.thedeathroad.com), a vilag legveszelyesebbnek mondott utjanak bringaval. azert mondjak ezt, mert kb 60 km alatt tobb, mint 3500 m-t ereszkedik. es nem akarhol, hanem mindez igazi dzsungel hangulatban.
reggel felmentunk 4800-ra, ahol igazabol a felhoben ultunk fel a bringara, szoval nem sokat lattunk. de legalabb esett es hideg volt. (: kb. 10-15 percenkent megalltunk, mert
- ellenoriztek minket, vagy
- defektet kapott valaki, vagy
- enni kellett, vagy
- inni kellett, vagy- fotozkodtunk (sokat!), vagy
- oltozni/vetkozni kellett (epp az idovaltozas fuggvenyeben), vagy
- faradtak voltunk (foleg a kezem nem birta az allando bukkanokat), vagy
- csak ugy gyonyorkodni.
mert gyonyorkodni volt miben. hatalmas hegyek, de nem a megszokott kopar csucsok vagy fenyoerdok, hanem igazi dzsungel! no comment...leginkabb lejtett az ut, ami egyebkent baromi keskeny volt, szegely nelkul, neha vizesesek alatt, neha folyokon keresztul, de egy allando volt: az ut egyik oldala majdnem fuggolegesen tartott a melysegbe. kifejezetten jolesett a teriszonyomnak, de egyebkent feledhetetlen elmeny... (es jo gerincserv ellen!!!) legalabbis nehany napig tuti emlekezni fogok ra, amig a kezeim es a fenekem fajnak (:
ja, es amig a szazhusz csipes, amit osszeszedtem, el nem mulik...

masnap reggel irany peru! a buszosok valamiert kitalaltak, hogy nincs kozvetlen jarat, igy copacabana-ig meg a boliviai szinvonalat elvezhettem, azaz csontta fagytam a buszon.a perui oldalon - rovid es egyszeru hataratlepes utan - mar az argentinhez hasonlo buszt kaptunk. es kezdodott a tuti: titicaca to, hegyek stb. azert bealudtam... hiaba, a faradtsag az faradtsag (:
egy helyen at kellett kelni a tavon, ami abbol allt, hogy mi utasok egy kulon lelekvesztoben, a busz pedig egy masikban tette meg ezt az utat. eh...punoba megerkezven az eddigi legjobb taxit fogtam, ami talan az indiai riksara emlekeztet:itt ma volt a karneval utolso napja, igy a foter egyik legjobb ettermebol, a titicaca tobol fogott pisztrang majszolasa kozben neztem a helyiek unnepet.egy helyi asszonysag nagyon kedvesen vigyorgott ram, en viszont, es mivel olyan beszedes volt az arca, gondoltam, udvariasan megkerdem, hogy lefotozhatom-e. erre elokapott egy meteres husangot, es azzal kezdett fenyegetozni. osszes spanyol tudasomat ossze kellett szednem, hogy megnyugtassam, de vegulis inkabb tovabballtam... (:

este nekiindultam nenet keresni, de epp a tancos felvonulas ert oda az utcankba. ez egyutt jart azzal, amit mar boliviaban lattam, azaz a habspray-k fujdosasaval. de itt nem voltak a kolykok olyan kimeletesek, es egybol nekiestek a turistaknak. kenytelen voltam felvasarolni 4 palackkal, es ellentamadast inditani. megjegyzem, a 4 palack (amibol 2 pocsek volt) helyett kb 15-ot kaptam vissza... ((:hihetetlen jo volt!!! mint egy 8 eves, komolyan... :D
remelem, a cuccaim megszaradnak holnapig (:

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la paz is still worht a few more words. because it is a city, where
- there is no flat road
- no house finished or painted
- the back of the buses are painted, either with a picutre of Jesus or a half naked girl
- if you get lost, you just have to go down the valley, and will soon find the right direction
- the higher you wanna buy a flat on the hills, the cheaper it is
still, a week was more then enough, especially because it was a bit unintentional at the end...
next mission was the death road (http://www.thedeathroad.com), which is told the most dangerous road on earth due to the 3500 m altitude difference in about 60 km. and the place itself is gorgeous: hillarious mountains with real jungle plaints... amazing!we started at 4800 m, where we mainly rode the bike in a cloud. but at least it was cold and rainy (: we stopped every 10-15 minutes, because
- we had checking points, or
- someone had a flat tyre, or
- we had to eat, or
- we had to drink, or
- pictures were taken (a lot!!!), or
- we had to dress up/down (depending on the weather conditions), or
- we were tired (especially my hands could not stand the many bumpings), or
- just admiring the view.
because there were plenty of things to admire. huge mountains, but not the ´usual´ ones with rocks or pine trees, but with jungle plaints! no comment...most of the time it was downhill, narrow, no protection on the side, sometimes under waterfalls, sometimes through rivers, but there was something constant: the edge of the road run steeply, or rather vertically to the depth. it was great for my fear of height, otherwise unforgetable adventure...
at least for a few days until my hands and butt hurts. oh, and dont forget the tens of bites that itche all the time...

next day heading to peru! the bus company came up with a change that there is no direct bus, so until copacabana i could still enjoy the amazing bolivian service - meaning it was freezing cold in the bus. in peru - after a short and simple border check - it was more similar to the argentinian style bus. and the fun begun: lake titicaca, mountains etc, still i fell asleep, but such is life...
on the road we had to cross the lake, which ment that we had to get off the bus, take a ´boat´, and the bus took another one. to be honest, i did not trust any of them, but all survived...
arriving to puno i took the funniest taxi ever. it reminded me to an indian riksa (picture above).
this was the last day of the carnival in the city. i took a balcony place in one of the best restaurants of the city, eating a throut from lake titicaca and enjoying the fiesta of the locals.
there was a very characteristic local old lady smiling at me, so i decided to ask her about a picture. the answer was a meter long spear pinning on me, so i had rather left... (:
in the evening i left to find a netcafe, but i just arrived to the middle of the festival. it also meant, that kids came with the foam sprays (same as in bolivia) and started attacking us tourists. i had no other chance then buying a few of them and give a reverse. i have to admit, that my tactic - being in the middle of the road - was not the best, and until i attacked with 4 sprays, i got approximately 15... ((:i have not enjoyed a crazy game like this so much for a while... like a 8-year old kid... :D
i hope my clothes will dry by tomorrow (:

la paz-ban ragadva / stuck in la paz

egyaltalan nem akartam megismerkezni a boliviai egeszseguggyel, de a kirgizek utan ugy tunik ezt sem tudtam kihagyni... (:
minden ott kezdodott, hogy az agy tul puha volt, es reggel kicsit nyikorgo hattal inditottam a napot. es hiaba barmi, ez kesobb sem javult, igy lemondtam a bringazast, es tudomasul vettem, hogy kicsit kijott a gerincservem. uff, legjobbkor, legjobb helyen...
delutan masszor - varakozasaimmal ellentetben nagyon jo volt, mondhatom reg koltottem el ilyen hasznosan 6 eurot -, de csak nem javult, ugyhogy estere bejelentkeztem a dokihoz. egy oras varakozas utan megvizsgalt, ami tok vicces volt. csukott szemmel kellett setalnom a rendeloben, majd filccel osszerajzolta a hatamon azokat a pontokat, amik fajnak. 20 perc vizsgalat utan kozolte, hogy helyes az altalam mar az elejen elmondott diagnozis, azaz a serv egy kicsit kint van. felirt ezer gyogyszert, amit kaja utan kell bevenni. mondtam, hogy nem sokat eszem, mert ugye hasmars ezerrel... hiaba, elni tudni kell ((:
utana gyogyszertar, ahol darabra kaptam a gyogyszereket: a dobozt kinyitottak, es kivagtak annyit, amennyi nekem kell. persze az arat is igy alakitottak, ami vegulis egesz hasznos dolog (:
hazafele a taxiban vegre lattam la paz-t ejjel. wow, valahogy ugy tudnam leirni, mint amikor a varos feletti nehany szaz meteres korben az eg tele lenne csillagokkal - legalabbis a lampak pont igy neznek ki.

uszoda: ez nem olyan egyszeru eset itt. az egyetlen - nekem - biztosnak mondott uszoda egy katonai bazison, a varos szelen van. a bejaratnal rogton fegyveres katonai kiseretet kaptam egeszen az uszoda bejarataig. (: az uszoda maga... hat... leszamitva azt, hogy 3700 m-en 50 m-nel tobbet (!!!) egyhuzamban nem tudtam leuszni, igy 750 m lett masfel ora alatt. szoval a hely kicsit nagyon dzsuvas, nincs melegviz letusolni (jo, jo, orulok, hogy hideg legalabb volt!), hajszaritorol nem is almodom. az oltozo fel negyzetmeter, aminek a 3/4-eben egy pad van. komoly kihivas ott atoltozni. (:
holnap ugyanitt ugyanigy...
//JPG, en jarok uszni. remelem te is!!! :P

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i definitely did not want to get familiar with the health care in bolivia, but after kyrgyzstan i just could not miss it (:
everything started with a bed that was not very comfortable and my spine started hurting. whatever i did, the pain did not stop - my disk hernia in my spine got worse again. so i had to cancel mountain biking and went to a massage. actually it was much better then i expected, but did not terminate the pain.
so i had to see the doctor, that was quite funny. i had to walk around with closed eyes, then he started drawing the painful point on my back with a pen and finally came up with the same conclusion as i told him in the beginning - spine hernia hurts the nerves a bit. i got plenty of medicines, which i got in the pharmacy by pieces - meaning they opened up the box, cut exactly the amount i need, and luckily charged the same way (:
on the way home i had a chance to view la paz at night: this is simply gorgeous!!! something like thousands of stars around - but they are the buildings on the surrounding mountains.

swimming pool: not very simple here (: the only swimming pool with the lenght more then 15 m is in the military base in the suburb of the city. ok, great, lets give it a try! at the entrance i got accompany of a soldier. the pool itself... eeeh... quite dirty, no hot water (i know, at least i had cold water), not even dreaming about a drier. the changing room is 1/2 m2, in which it is a challenge to change! at the altitude of 3700m i could not swim more then 50 m (!!!) in one!!! all together 750 m in 90 minutes... funny (:
tomorrow the same place the same distance...

bolivia rulez

nehez nem irni, annyira sokminden tortenik.uyuni utan alig vartam, hogy la paz-ba erjek. cudar 14-oras buszozas kovetkezett futes (ez ebben a magassagban szamit), szelloztetes, vilagitas nelkul egy foldesuton, ahol amint elenk kerult egy masik jarmu, azonnal meg lehetett fulladni. hajnali 7-kor ideertem, gyorsan szallas utan neztem, es nekiindultam a varosnak.
ez a hely hihetetlen! egy varos, fenn 3600 m magasan, minden oldalrol hegyek kozott, a tavolban egy 6000 m-es havas csuccsal, egyszeruen lenyugozo. rabul ejtett mindazok ellenere, hogy baromi budos, zsufolt, es minden autos folyamatosan nyomja a dudat. ezen kivul - mint az osszes eddig latott orszagra jellemzo - az autok nem torodnek szegeny gyalogosokkal, es ha nem sietsz, siman keresztulmegy rajtad... bar ez a legrosszabb az eddig latottak kozul.nincs jobb es baloldal, tiszta kaosz...ja, tok hideg van az eddigiekhez kepest. bar tudom, nehanyan aldanak az eget az itteni 20 fokert...
kovetkezo kihivas: hegymaszas. itt van a legkonnyebben megmaszhato 6000-es csucs, a huayna potosi. gondoltam, belevagok, hatha...
elso nap felmentunk az alaptaborba 4700 m-re, de ide meg csak autoval. amulyan akklimatizacios nap volt ez: elmentunk kicsit gleccsert maszni, meg jeget is egy kicsit, hogy a harmadik nap mar konnyebben menjen. nem mondom, hogy csipobol ment, de nem volt rossz!
masodik nap 4700-rol kellett felmaszni 5130-ra a felso taborba. ez a kis 430 m szintkulonbseg nem is lenne sok, de ezen a magassagon ugy ereztem, hogy meghalok. vegulis 2 ora alatt felertunk, es mint egy darab fa estem a halozsakba. (termeszetesen futetlen hutte, de igy is orultem neki nagyon.) az akklimatizacioval gondjaim voltak, egesz komoly fejfajasom lett. nem votlam benne biztos, hogy a kovetkezo nap menni fog. hiaba vagyok mar 3000 m felett vagy egy hete, es hiaba a sokfele tea meg egyebek, nem olyan, mint 400 m-en...
a harmadik nap ejfelkor keltunk, igy elozo nap kb 5-kor takarodo volt. hajnali 1-kor, reggeli (hivhatom annak???) utan nekiindultunk. nem nagyon tudtam enni, tok pocsek volt a gyomrom. de hiaba, muszaj, kulonben nem megy a maszas. felcsatoltuk a hagovasakat, es irany a gleccser, tok sotetben. 100 m emelkedo utan kidobtam a taccsot. nem voltam kifejezetten jol. kis piheno, aztan irany tovabb.
kb. meg 10 m-t tudtam menni, es ott ereztem, hogy most nincs tobb bennem. hascsikaras, gyengeseg, szedules, hasmars... egyutt kicsit sok volt, hogy ezt a hegyet legyozzem, barmennyire is szerettem volna.
bar az talan meg egy kicsit nehezebb volt, hogy a teljesitmenykenyszeremen urra legyek, es magamnak bevalljam, hogy ez most nem megy. visszafordultam a turavezetovel, aki beengedett a huttebe es odaadta a kulcsot.
elmentem a pottyantos wc-hez, majd amikor visszaertem a hazhoz, akkor jottem ra, hogy kizartam magam!!! neeeeem!!!! eh, mondom, hozom a formam: ejjel 2 ora, 5130 m, senki a kornyeken, se telefon, se takaro, semmi, nincs tul meleg sem... el tudod kepzelni, milyen erzes?
volt a hutte elott egy kis sator, ami vegulis konyhakent funkcionalt, oda bevackoltam magam. talaltam egy drotot, azzal megprobaltam felfeszegetni a zarat, de hiaba. vegigneztem az ablakokat a hazon, de nem tudtam ugy sem bejutni. korbeneztem, hogy hogy lehetne a leheto legmelegebbet csinalni a satorban. osszeszedtem a zsakokat, es csinaltam egy kis vackot magamnak. de kb. fel ora utan ereztem, hogy nem fog mukodni ez igy reggelig.
szerencsemre az ajto felett volt uvegablak. lemertem, hogy epp elerem a zarat. igy azt egy kovel betortem (hehe, fura erzes volt!!!), es mar bent is voltam! bejutottam!!! mindegy, azert ez az ejszaka bejutott a tiz legrosszabb ejszakam koze... (:
a utravezeto mondta, hogy 8 eve vezet turakat erre a hegyre, de eddig ilyennel meg nem talalkozott... :P
azota ujra a varosban vagyok, es ugy erzem, most egy ideig nem megyek hegyet maszni. bar egyet megtanultam: nemet mondani, ha mar tenyleg tulmentem a hataraimon...

ui: fotok nincsenek, mert virus koltozott a kint vett kartyamra. ugy tunik, a kint vett kutyukkel mindig mellefogok... (:

ui2: mar vannak, ma csinaltam oket

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it is hard not to write. too many things happen.after being in uyuni i was longing for getting to la paz. it was a terrible 14-hour bus drive, much worse then the argentinian ones. without heating (which really counts in this altitude), air circulation, lights. i got here at 7 am., quickly found a hostel and started to explore the city.
this is simply amasing!!! a city at the altitude of ~3600 m, surrounded with houses on the hills, with the view of a 6000 m high snowy summit... it is charming despite the smog, dirt, crowd and continuous car horns. anyway, cars never stop, so one must be extremely careful when crossing the street.next mission: mountainclimbing. the easiest 6000+ m high peak is in bolivia called huayna potosi, so i decided to give it a try.
the first day we went up with a car to the base camp, which is 4700 m above the sea level. this way a day for acclimatization: we went out ice climbing and praticing on ice. it was not easy, but it was high time for me to do it, so i really enjoyed!
on the second day the task was to climb from 4700 to 5130. this does not sound a big altitude difference, but in this height it definitely is. i really suffered, but we finished it in 2 hours. i was still happy about being in the unheaded hutte. i had problems with acclimatization, i had a serious headache. i was not sure if i could do the next day. even though i was above 3000 m for more then a week and took herb tea and more, it did not solve all my problems.
third day we woke up atmidnight, so the previous day we went to sleep at 5 pm. at 1 am, after breakfast (can i call it breakfast at all??) we left. i had no appetite at all, my stomach was a total mess. anyway, i need energy, so i forced myself to eat at least a bit. put on the boots and started in total darkness. after 100 m of climbing i threw up. it was not my best day. some rest and we went on.
i could climb another 10 meters and felt that that was the last point. i had to give it up. it was a terrible feeling and i could hardly believe that i failed. but with diarrhoea, pain and dizziness i could not climb another 850 m in this altitude. it was too much to conquier the peak... ):
the failure itself was even worse then the current feelings i had. it was against my way of life or such...
the guide led me back to the hutte and gave me the key. i went to the toilet - outside of course - and when i got back to the entraqnce door, i noticed that i locked myself out!!! noooooo!!!! can you imagine the feeling? right there, totally sick, 2 am, dark and cold, alone on 5130 m, noone around, no phone, no blankets... how could i do that?
there was a small and windy tent in front of the building, which functioned as a kitchen. i tried to hide there. i tried to figure out what to do to get this night over as well as possible. i tried to open the door with a cable, checked all the windows, but could not get in. i built up a little asylum in the tent, but after an hour i felt that this could not work until morning.
i saw a window above the door. i measured, that i could reach the lock, if i broke the window. so i took a stone - finally something i had enough of - and broke the window (although a wuite weird feeling!!!). i was in the house!!!!
anyway, this day deserves an exclusive position in the top-ten worst nights in my life (:
the guide told me, that during his praxis of 8 years he never had such a story... :P
anyway, i am back to civilisation, and now i dont feel like climbing for a while. but i learned one thing for sure: to say no, if i am beyond my limits...

ps: no pictures now as i have a virus on my memory card. it seems, that whatever i buy in these countries all have the same shit...

ps2: some pics are uploaded

altiplano

atertem boliviaba. szepen gyulnek a pecsetek az utlevelemben. (: felertem 3000 m fole, es mindenfele gyogymod ellenere megszenvedtem egy brutal fejfajassal. hiaba, nem vagyok en ehhez hozzaszokva...

de legalabb tuleltem a karnevalt. nem volt egy nagy durranas, de biztosithatok mindenkit, hogy bolivia bevetelenek nagy resze a lufikbol es a fujhato hab spray-kbol all. a karneval nagy resze abbol allt ugyanis, hogy a gyerekek vizzel teli lufijai es a spray-k elol menekultem (:

ami meg szep a dologban, hogy egeytlen zeneszam megy folyamatosan, es arra vonulnak fel az emberek.

befizettem egy ujabb turara: 4 nap, terepjaroval. nagyon megerte, meg ha utalom is oket. 2 autoval voltunk, 10 turista (nemet, svajci, angol, argentin, holland, dan stb...), 2 sofor + 2 szakacs. merthogy helyi kajat kaptunk vegig.

a terulet, amit bejartunk: az altiplano, vagyis magasfold, lenyugozo. az egesz terulet 3500 m felett van (ha jol emlekszem). lattunk emut, vikunyat, lamat (lama steak-et ettunk is. finom!!!), flamingokat, meg nehany allatot meg tutira nem ismertem fel.es lattunk vulkant, pampat, feher lagunat, kek lagunat, piros lagunat, zold lagunat, laktunk a leheto legegyszerubb hazban es sohotelben, furodtunk termal forrasban nem semmi kilatassal, megneztuk a sosivatagot napfelkeltekor (a harom napbol ketszer fel 5-kor keltunk!!!) meg nehany gejzirt, volt 42 fok es 10 is, esett, havazott, sutott a nap, volt 5 defektunk (persze a ket auton osszesen)...

a masodik nap szallasanal talaltunk egy focipalyat, es gyorsan ki is hivtuk a helyi boliviaiakat egy meccsre. nem tudom, sportoltatok-e mar 3700 m magasan, de ha meg nem, es nem szeretnetek 2 napig tarto tudofajast 5x3 perc szaladgalas utan, akkor ne is tegyetek! (:

azert megerte, mert lottem egy golt, es egesz este a helyiek dicsereteit zsebelhettem be (:

ime egy kis izelito a latottakbol:

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i arrived to bolivia. there are more and more stamps in my passport (: i reached the altitude of 3000 m, which caused me a terrible headache despite that i chewed quite a lot of coca leaves. anyway, i am not used to it...

but survived the carnival. it is not a big deal, but i am sure, that a significant percentage of the income of bolivia comes from foam sprays and balloons, that kids fill up with water. in total the carneval was not more then trying to escape from the above mentioned 'attacks' by kids...

the other lovely thing in the carneval is that the whole week you listen to one song which gives the background music for the festival.

i went to another tour: 4 days with a jeep. it was a great 4 days!!! we went with two jeeps, 10 tourists (english, danish, holland, german, argentinian etc...), 2 drivers and 2 cooks. as we got local food during the journey.

the area we were at is altiplano, meaning high land. it is just gorgeous! the area is above 3500 m (if i remember well). we saw emus, vichunyas, lamas (even had lama steak!), flamingos, and some others i dont know...

and we saw vulcanos, pampas, white laguna, blue laguna, green laguna, red laguna, lived in the simplest room ever and in a salt hotel, had bath in a termal bath with an amasing view to the mountains, saw the salt desert in sunset (we had to wake up at 4:30 twice!!!) and some geysers. sometimes it was 10 degrees and sometimes 42, it was raining, snowing, sunshine, we had 5 flat tyres (but the two cars together)...

there was a football field near our accomodation on the second day, so we immediately went to play with locals. i do not know if you ever played football at the altitude of 3700 m, but if not, and do not want a constant pain in your lungs for 2 days after 5x3 minutes game, then do not do it! (:

it was still worth it as i scored a goal ((:

some pictures of what we saw:

eszak-argentina / north agrentina

24 (!) oras buszut utan megerkeztem salta-ba. ebben az utban az volt a szep, hogy nem alltunk meg utkozben. volt wc a buszon (no comment) es kaptunk enni is, igy ok ugy tartottak jonak, hogy ennyivel be kell ernunk.
befoglaltam 2 egynapos turat, teljesen szervezettet. pont olyat, amit lefikaztam az elozo blogban: ulunk a buszban, a szep helyeken megallunk fotozni stb. :P de mindenek ellenere meg kell kovessem magam, mert megerte, foleg az elso nap. talan azert is, mert olyan helyekre vitt el, ahova csak autoval tudnek szervezett tura nelkul menni. elso nap: salta-cafayete. persze lemerult az elemem, amit az elso bolt elhagyasa utan vettem eszre... nem baj, fejben fotozok! (kesobb lett elem, igy kepek is...)
egeszen lenyugozo a kornyek. voroslo hegyek es zoldello novenyzet egyuttesen (foleg a brea noveny). neha azt erzem, hogy a festo osszecserelte az ecseteket, amikor ez keszult.megneztuk a ´garganta del diablo´ masodik kiadasat (az ordog torka, az elso a vizesesek torkolatanal volt), hallgattuk a semmiben ucsorgo koldust zenelni, felmasztunk egy kisebb dombra, ettunk argentina legjobbnak kikialtott fagyizojaban, ahol feher es vorosbor izu fagyit is adnak
a buszon kaptunk helyi mate teat, amit kicsit maskepp kell elkepzelni, mint az otthoni filteres verziot. egy poharka tele, de tenyleg tele van teafuvel, es arra ontenek kb fel deci forro vizet. egeszen utos, hogy fel lehet tole ebredni. mivel az orszag teljes kulturajat be akartak mutatni, igy kokalevelet is kaptunk ragcsalni. allitolag tele van vitaminnal, es frissito hatasa van. ja, es jo a magashelyi betegseg ellen is. (amugy itt uton-utfelen lehet kapni, es nem is ember, akinel nincs egy jo adag keznel...)
mire visszaertem a hostelbe, az uj szobatarsaim foztek vacsit. es mit varhat az ember argentinoktol, ha nem steak-et?!? komolyan, eletem legjobb steak-je volt!!! wow...
este (11-kor, mert itt kicsit kesobb indul az elet) elmentunk egy helyi etterembe, ahol folklor musor volt. ez is nagyon ott volt, bar engem kicsit frusztralt hogy sokunkbol csak en nem beszeltem spanyolul. de majd egy honap mulva...
masnap eszaknak indultunk, ahol megneztunk megint egy csomo mindent - komoly melo lesz felidezni, hogy mi hol is volt tulajdonkeppen.
de amikre emlekszem:
a 7-szinu hegy es egy tunderi kisfalu: egy kaktuszkert es a korulotte talalhato asatasok: es egy borkostolo, de azt nem tartottam tul erdekesnek lefotozni.
termeszetesen itt is volt egy ´garganza de diablo´, de mar nem emlekszem, hol...
humahuaca-ban akartam maradni estere, de a konyvvel ellentetben, ami argentina leginkabb inka hatasait hordozo falujanak irja le, en inkabb egy poros kis falunak talaltam teli arusokkal, akik ugyanazt aruljak. ugyhogy este meg atkeltem a hataron. de boliviarol majd legkozelebb.
ja, elhagytam a telefonom, ugyhogy ne pazaroljatok ram az sms-eket (:

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24-hour bus and i am in salta! this was a nice ride as the driver never stopped for more then 2-3 minutes. we got food on the bus and had a toilet (no comment-type :P), so they decided that we would not need any more stops.
i went to 2 one-day tours, totally organized... exactly the kind that i found really poor in my previous blog: sitting in the bus, stop for taking pictures etc. anyway, i have to admit, that it was worth it especially the first day. maybe because we were taken to places where i could not get by myself. first day: of course i forgot to recharge my batteries, so taking pictures in my head only (later on i could buy some, so there will be pictures)
the scenery is amazing here! red mountains and green plants (brea bush especially!!!). sometimes i think that the painter switched the colours (: we visited the ´garganta del diablo´ nr II (first one was at the iguazu falls), listened to the songs of the begger in the middle of nowhere, climbed up to a smaller hill, ate in the best ice cream place of argentina, where they sell flavours of red and white wine too! we got mate tea on the bus, which is quite different from the mate i drink at home. at least the amount of the used grass. here a glass was full, and less then a deciliter of hot water was put on top. it really woke me up!!! we also got some coca leaves to try. it is told to be full of vitamies and refreshes, plus helps you to get over the altitude sickness. the leaves are available here everywhere, and the one does not have any is not even counted... (:
by the time i got back to the hotel, my roommates prepared some food - steak of course! what else in agrentina? that was the best steak in my life! we went to a reastaurant in the evening (at 11 pm, when life starts here) and saw some folklore musik, and tango etc. that was amasing! i was a bit frustrated that i was the only one who is not fluent in spanish, but maybe in a month...
next day heading to the north. again lots of nice things - it will be hard to remember everything. but the ones i can recall:
7-colour mountains and a cute little village:garden of cactus plus some archeological sites: of course there was a place called ´garganza de diablo´, but no idea which...
i wanted to stay in humahuaca for the night, but despite lp explanations, as this is the most inca village in agrentina, i rather found it a sleepy dirty village full of shops selling the same stuffs for tourists - so i went on to bolivia. but that is another story
oh, yeah, i lost my mobile, so dont waste money on sending me sms (: