uyuni utan alig vartam, hogy la paz-ba erjek. cudar 14-oras buszozas kovetkezett futes (ez ebben a magassagban szamit), szelloztetes, vilagitas nelkul egy foldesuton, ahol amint elenk kerult egy masik jarmu, azonnal meg lehetett fulladni. hajnali 7-kor ideertem, gyorsan szallas utan neztem, es nekiindultam a varosnak.ez a hely hihetetlen! egy varos, fenn 3600 m magasan, minden oldalrol hegyek kozott, a tavolban egy 6000 m-es havas csuccsal, egyszeruen lenyugozo. rabul ejtett mindazok ellenere, hogy baromi budos, zsufolt, es minden autos folyamatosan nyomja a dudat. ezen kivul - mint az osszes eddig latott orszagra jellemzo - az autok nem torodnek szegeny gyalogosokkal, es ha nem sietsz, siman keresztulmegy rajtad... bar ez a legrosszabb az eddig latottak kozul.nincs jobb es baloldal, tiszta kaosz...
ja, tok hideg van az eddigiekhez kepest. bar tudom, nehanyan aldanak az eget az itteni 20 fokert...kovetkezo kihivas: hegymaszas. itt van a legkonnyebben megmaszhato 6000-es csucs, a huayna potosi. gondoltam, belevagok, hatha...
elso nap felmentunk az alaptaborba 4700 m-re, de ide meg csak autoval. amulyan akklimatizacios nap volt ez: elmentunk kicsit gleccsert maszni, meg jeget is egy kicsit, hogy a harmadik nap mar konnyebben menjen. nem mondom, hogy csipobol ment, de nem volt rossz!
masodik nap 4700-rol kellett felmaszni 5130-ra a felso taborba. ez a kis 430 m szintkulonbseg nem is lenne sok, de ezen a magassagon ugy ereztem, hogy meghalok. vegulis 2 ora alatt felertunk, es mint egy darab fa estem a halozsakba. (termeszetesen futetlen hutte, de igy is orultem neki nagyon.) az akklimatizacioval gondjaim voltak, egesz komoly fejfajasom lett. nem votlam benne biztos, hogy a kovetkezo nap menni fog. hiaba vagyok mar 3000 m felett vagy egy hete, es hiaba a sokfele tea meg egyebek, nem olyan, mint 400 m-en...
a harmadik nap ejfelkor keltunk, igy elozo nap kb 5-kor takarodo volt. hajnali 1-kor, reggeli (hivhatom annak???) utan nekiindultunk. nem nagyon tudtam enni, tok pocsek volt a gyomrom. de hiaba, muszaj, kulonben nem megy a maszas. felcsatoltuk a hagovasakat, es irany a gleccser, tok sotetben. 100 m emelkedo utan kidobtam a taccsot. nem voltam kifejezetten jol. kis piheno, aztan irany tovabb.
kb. meg 10 m-t tudtam menni, es ott ereztem, hogy most nincs tobb bennem. hascsikaras, gyengeseg, szedules, hasmars... egyutt kicsit sok volt, hogy ezt a hegyet legyozzem, barmennyire is szerettem volna.
bar az talan meg egy kicsit nehezebb volt, hogy a teljesitmenykenyszeremen urra legyek, es magamnak bevalljam, hogy ez most nem megy. visszafordultam a turavezetovel, aki beengedett a huttebe es odaadta a kulcsot.
elmentem a pottyantos wc-hez, majd amikor visszaertem a hazhoz, akkor jottem ra, hogy kizartam magam!!! neeeeem!!!! eh, mondom, hozom a formam: ejjel 2 ora, 5130 m, senki a kornyeken, se telefon, se takaro, semmi, nincs tul meleg sem... el tudod kepzelni, milyen erzes?
volt a hutte elott egy kis sator, ami vegulis konyhakent funkcionalt, oda bevackoltam magam. talaltam egy drotot, azzal megprobaltam felfeszegetni a zarat, de hiaba. vegigneztem az ablakokat a hazon, de nem tudtam ugy sem bejutni. korbeneztem, hogy hogy lehetne a leheto legmelegebbet csinalni a satorban. osszeszedtem a zsakokat, es csinaltam egy kis vackot magamnak. de kb. fel ora utan ereztem, hogy nem fog mukodni ez igy reggelig.
szerencsemre az ajto felett volt uvegablak. lemertem, hogy epp elerem a zarat. igy azt egy kovel betortem (hehe, fura erzes volt!!!), es mar bent is voltam! bejutottam!!! mindegy, azert ez az ejszaka bejutott a tiz legrosszabb ejszakam koze... (:
a utravezeto mondta, hogy 8 eve vezet turakat erre a hegyre, de eddig ilyennel meg nem talalkozott... :P
azota ujra a varosban vagyok, es ugy erzem, most egy ideig nem megyek hegyet maszni. bar egyet megtanultam: nemet mondani, ha mar tenyleg tulmentem a hataraimon...
ui: fotok nincsenek, mert virus koltozott a kint vett kartyamra. ugy tunik, a kint vett kutyukkel mindig mellefogok... (:
ui2: mar vannak, ma csinaltam oket
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it is hard not to write. too many things happen.
after being in uyuni i was longing for getting to la paz. it was a terrible 14-hour bus drive, much worse then the argentinian ones. without heating (which really counts in this altitude), air circulation, lights. i got here at 7 am., quickly found a hostel and started to explore the city.this is simply amasing!!! a city at the altitude of ~3600 m, surrounded with houses on the hills, with the view of a 6000 m high snowy summit... it is charming despite the smog, dirt, crowd and continuous car horns. anyway, cars never stop, so one must be extremely careful when crossing the street.
next mission: mountainclimbing. the easiest 6000+ m high peak is in bolivia called huayna potosi, so i decided to give it a try.the first day we went up with a car to the base camp, which is 4700 m above the sea level. this way a day for acclimatization: we went out ice climbing and praticing on ice. it was not easy, but it was high time for me to do it, so i really enjoyed!
on the second day the task was to climb from 4700 to 5130. this does not sound a big altitude difference, but in this height it definitely is. i really suffered, but we finished it in 2 hours. i was still happy about being in the unheaded hutte. i had problems with acclimatization, i had a serious headache. i was not sure if i could do the next day. even though i was above 3000 m for more then a week and took herb tea and more, it did not solve all my problems.
third day we woke up atmidnight, so the previous day we went to sleep at 5 pm. at 1 am, after breakfast (can i call it breakfast at all??) we left. i had no appetite at all, my stomach was a total mess. anyway, i need energy, so i forced myself to eat at least a bit. put on the boots and started in total darkness. after 100 m of climbing i threw up. it was not my best day. some rest and we went on.
i could climb another 10 meters and felt that that was the last point. i had to give it up. it was a terrible feeling and i could hardly believe that i failed. but with diarrhoea, pain and dizziness i could not climb another 850 m in this altitude. it was too much to conquier the peak... ):
the failure itself was even worse then the current feelings i had. it was against my way of life or such...
the guide led me back to the hutte and gave me the key. i went to the toilet - outside of course - and when i got back to the entraqnce door, i noticed that i locked myself out!!! noooooo!!!! can you imagine the feeling? right there, totally sick, 2 am, dark and cold, alone on 5130 m, noone around, no phone, no blankets... how could i do that?
there was a small and windy tent in front of the building, which functioned as a kitchen. i tried to hide there. i tried to figure out what to do to get this night over as well as possible. i tried to open the door with a cable, checked all the windows, but could not get in. i built up a little asylum in the tent, but after an hour i felt that this could not work until morning.
i saw a window above the door. i measured, that i could reach the lock, if i broke the window. so i took a stone - finally something i had enough of - and broke the window (although a wuite weird feeling!!!). i was in the house!!!!
anyway, this day deserves an exclusive position in the top-ten worst nights in my life (:
the guide told me, that during his praxis of 8 years he never had such a story... :P
anyway, i am back to civilisation, and now i dont feel like climbing for a while. but i learned one thing for sure: to say no, if i am beyond my limits...
ps: no pictures now as i have a virus on my memory card. it seems, that whatever i buy in these countries all have the same shit...
ps2: some pics are uploaded
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