death road + peru

la paz meger meg nehany szot. mert ez egy olyan varos, ahol:
- nincs egyenes ut
- nincs befejezett vagy bevakolt haz
- a buszok hatuljara vagy Jezus kep vagy meztelen nok vannak festve, mas opcio nincs
- ha eltevedtel, csak el kell indulnod a volgy fele, es onnan mar pofonegyszeru tajekozodni
- minel feljebb laksz a hegyen, annal olcsobb a lakas
mindezek ellenere eleg volt az egy het, amit itt dekkoltam, foleg a nem tervezett napok...
nekiindultam a ´death road´-nak (http://www.thedeathroad.com), a vilag legveszelyesebbnek mondott utjanak bringaval. azert mondjak ezt, mert kb 60 km alatt tobb, mint 3500 m-t ereszkedik. es nem akarhol, hanem mindez igazi dzsungel hangulatban.
reggel felmentunk 4800-ra, ahol igazabol a felhoben ultunk fel a bringara, szoval nem sokat lattunk. de legalabb esett es hideg volt. (: kb. 10-15 percenkent megalltunk, mert
- ellenoriztek minket, vagy
- defektet kapott valaki, vagy
- enni kellett, vagy
- inni kellett, vagy- fotozkodtunk (sokat!), vagy
- oltozni/vetkozni kellett (epp az idovaltozas fuggvenyeben), vagy
- faradtak voltunk (foleg a kezem nem birta az allando bukkanokat), vagy
- csak ugy gyonyorkodni.
mert gyonyorkodni volt miben. hatalmas hegyek, de nem a megszokott kopar csucsok vagy fenyoerdok, hanem igazi dzsungel! no comment...leginkabb lejtett az ut, ami egyebkent baromi keskeny volt, szegely nelkul, neha vizesesek alatt, neha folyokon keresztul, de egy allando volt: az ut egyik oldala majdnem fuggolegesen tartott a melysegbe. kifejezetten jolesett a teriszonyomnak, de egyebkent feledhetetlen elmeny... (es jo gerincserv ellen!!!) legalabbis nehany napig tuti emlekezni fogok ra, amig a kezeim es a fenekem fajnak (:
ja, es amig a szazhusz csipes, amit osszeszedtem, el nem mulik...

masnap reggel irany peru! a buszosok valamiert kitalaltak, hogy nincs kozvetlen jarat, igy copacabana-ig meg a boliviai szinvonalat elvezhettem, azaz csontta fagytam a buszon.a perui oldalon - rovid es egyszeru hataratlepes utan - mar az argentinhez hasonlo buszt kaptunk. es kezdodott a tuti: titicaca to, hegyek stb. azert bealudtam... hiaba, a faradtsag az faradtsag (:
egy helyen at kellett kelni a tavon, ami abbol allt, hogy mi utasok egy kulon lelekvesztoben, a busz pedig egy masikban tette meg ezt az utat. eh...punoba megerkezven az eddigi legjobb taxit fogtam, ami talan az indiai riksara emlekeztet:itt ma volt a karneval utolso napja, igy a foter egyik legjobb ettermebol, a titicaca tobol fogott pisztrang majszolasa kozben neztem a helyiek unnepet.egy helyi asszonysag nagyon kedvesen vigyorgott ram, en viszont, es mivel olyan beszedes volt az arca, gondoltam, udvariasan megkerdem, hogy lefotozhatom-e. erre elokapott egy meteres husangot, es azzal kezdett fenyegetozni. osszes spanyol tudasomat ossze kellett szednem, hogy megnyugtassam, de vegulis inkabb tovabballtam... (:

este nekiindultam nenet keresni, de epp a tancos felvonulas ert oda az utcankba. ez egyutt jart azzal, amit mar boliviaban lattam, azaz a habspray-k fujdosasaval. de itt nem voltak a kolykok olyan kimeletesek, es egybol nekiestek a turistaknak. kenytelen voltam felvasarolni 4 palackkal, es ellentamadast inditani. megjegyzem, a 4 palack (amibol 2 pocsek volt) helyett kb 15-ot kaptam vissza... ((:hihetetlen jo volt!!! mint egy 8 eves, komolyan... :D
remelem, a cuccaim megszaradnak holnapig (:

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la paz is still worht a few more words. because it is a city, where
- there is no flat road
- no house finished or painted
- the back of the buses are painted, either with a picutre of Jesus or a half naked girl
- if you get lost, you just have to go down the valley, and will soon find the right direction
- the higher you wanna buy a flat on the hills, the cheaper it is
still, a week was more then enough, especially because it was a bit unintentional at the end...
next mission was the death road (http://www.thedeathroad.com), which is told the most dangerous road on earth due to the 3500 m altitude difference in about 60 km. and the place itself is gorgeous: hillarious mountains with real jungle plaints... amazing!we started at 4800 m, where we mainly rode the bike in a cloud. but at least it was cold and rainy (: we stopped every 10-15 minutes, because
- we had checking points, or
- someone had a flat tyre, or
- we had to eat, or
- we had to drink, or
- pictures were taken (a lot!!!), or
- we had to dress up/down (depending on the weather conditions), or
- we were tired (especially my hands could not stand the many bumpings), or
- just admiring the view.
because there were plenty of things to admire. huge mountains, but not the ´usual´ ones with rocks or pine trees, but with jungle plaints! no comment...most of the time it was downhill, narrow, no protection on the side, sometimes under waterfalls, sometimes through rivers, but there was something constant: the edge of the road run steeply, or rather vertically to the depth. it was great for my fear of height, otherwise unforgetable adventure...
at least for a few days until my hands and butt hurts. oh, and dont forget the tens of bites that itche all the time...

next day heading to peru! the bus company came up with a change that there is no direct bus, so until copacabana i could still enjoy the amazing bolivian service - meaning it was freezing cold in the bus. in peru - after a short and simple border check - it was more similar to the argentinian style bus. and the fun begun: lake titicaca, mountains etc, still i fell asleep, but such is life...
on the road we had to cross the lake, which ment that we had to get off the bus, take a ´boat´, and the bus took another one. to be honest, i did not trust any of them, but all survived...
arriving to puno i took the funniest taxi ever. it reminded me to an indian riksa (picture above).
this was the last day of the carnival in the city. i took a balcony place in one of the best restaurants of the city, eating a throut from lake titicaca and enjoying the fiesta of the locals.
there was a very characteristic local old lady smiling at me, so i decided to ask her about a picture. the answer was a meter long spear pinning on me, so i had rather left... (:
in the evening i left to find a netcafe, but i just arrived to the middle of the festival. it also meant, that kids came with the foam sprays (same as in bolivia) and started attacking us tourists. i had no other chance then buying a few of them and give a reverse. i have to admit, that my tactic - being in the middle of the road - was not the best, and until i attacked with 4 sprays, i got approximately 15... ((:i have not enjoyed a crazy game like this so much for a while... like a 8-year old kid... :D
i hope my clothes will dry by tomorrow (: