bolivia rulez

nehez nem irni, annyira sokminden tortenik.uyuni utan alig vartam, hogy la paz-ba erjek. cudar 14-oras buszozas kovetkezett futes (ez ebben a magassagban szamit), szelloztetes, vilagitas nelkul egy foldesuton, ahol amint elenk kerult egy masik jarmu, azonnal meg lehetett fulladni. hajnali 7-kor ideertem, gyorsan szallas utan neztem, es nekiindultam a varosnak.
ez a hely hihetetlen! egy varos, fenn 3600 m magasan, minden oldalrol hegyek kozott, a tavolban egy 6000 m-es havas csuccsal, egyszeruen lenyugozo. rabul ejtett mindazok ellenere, hogy baromi budos, zsufolt, es minden autos folyamatosan nyomja a dudat. ezen kivul - mint az osszes eddig latott orszagra jellemzo - az autok nem torodnek szegeny gyalogosokkal, es ha nem sietsz, siman keresztulmegy rajtad... bar ez a legrosszabb az eddig latottak kozul.nincs jobb es baloldal, tiszta kaosz...ja, tok hideg van az eddigiekhez kepest. bar tudom, nehanyan aldanak az eget az itteni 20 fokert...
kovetkezo kihivas: hegymaszas. itt van a legkonnyebben megmaszhato 6000-es csucs, a huayna potosi. gondoltam, belevagok, hatha...
elso nap felmentunk az alaptaborba 4700 m-re, de ide meg csak autoval. amulyan akklimatizacios nap volt ez: elmentunk kicsit gleccsert maszni, meg jeget is egy kicsit, hogy a harmadik nap mar konnyebben menjen. nem mondom, hogy csipobol ment, de nem volt rossz!
masodik nap 4700-rol kellett felmaszni 5130-ra a felso taborba. ez a kis 430 m szintkulonbseg nem is lenne sok, de ezen a magassagon ugy ereztem, hogy meghalok. vegulis 2 ora alatt felertunk, es mint egy darab fa estem a halozsakba. (termeszetesen futetlen hutte, de igy is orultem neki nagyon.) az akklimatizacioval gondjaim voltak, egesz komoly fejfajasom lett. nem votlam benne biztos, hogy a kovetkezo nap menni fog. hiaba vagyok mar 3000 m felett vagy egy hete, es hiaba a sokfele tea meg egyebek, nem olyan, mint 400 m-en...
a harmadik nap ejfelkor keltunk, igy elozo nap kb 5-kor takarodo volt. hajnali 1-kor, reggeli (hivhatom annak???) utan nekiindultunk. nem nagyon tudtam enni, tok pocsek volt a gyomrom. de hiaba, muszaj, kulonben nem megy a maszas. felcsatoltuk a hagovasakat, es irany a gleccser, tok sotetben. 100 m emelkedo utan kidobtam a taccsot. nem voltam kifejezetten jol. kis piheno, aztan irany tovabb.
kb. meg 10 m-t tudtam menni, es ott ereztem, hogy most nincs tobb bennem. hascsikaras, gyengeseg, szedules, hasmars... egyutt kicsit sok volt, hogy ezt a hegyet legyozzem, barmennyire is szerettem volna.
bar az talan meg egy kicsit nehezebb volt, hogy a teljesitmenykenyszeremen urra legyek, es magamnak bevalljam, hogy ez most nem megy. visszafordultam a turavezetovel, aki beengedett a huttebe es odaadta a kulcsot.
elmentem a pottyantos wc-hez, majd amikor visszaertem a hazhoz, akkor jottem ra, hogy kizartam magam!!! neeeeem!!!! eh, mondom, hozom a formam: ejjel 2 ora, 5130 m, senki a kornyeken, se telefon, se takaro, semmi, nincs tul meleg sem... el tudod kepzelni, milyen erzes?
volt a hutte elott egy kis sator, ami vegulis konyhakent funkcionalt, oda bevackoltam magam. talaltam egy drotot, azzal megprobaltam felfeszegetni a zarat, de hiaba. vegigneztem az ablakokat a hazon, de nem tudtam ugy sem bejutni. korbeneztem, hogy hogy lehetne a leheto legmelegebbet csinalni a satorban. osszeszedtem a zsakokat, es csinaltam egy kis vackot magamnak. de kb. fel ora utan ereztem, hogy nem fog mukodni ez igy reggelig.
szerencsemre az ajto felett volt uvegablak. lemertem, hogy epp elerem a zarat. igy azt egy kovel betortem (hehe, fura erzes volt!!!), es mar bent is voltam! bejutottam!!! mindegy, azert ez az ejszaka bejutott a tiz legrosszabb ejszakam koze... (:
a utravezeto mondta, hogy 8 eve vezet turakat erre a hegyre, de eddig ilyennel meg nem talalkozott... :P
azota ujra a varosban vagyok, es ugy erzem, most egy ideig nem megyek hegyet maszni. bar egyet megtanultam: nemet mondani, ha mar tenyleg tulmentem a hataraimon...

ui: fotok nincsenek, mert virus koltozott a kint vett kartyamra. ugy tunik, a kint vett kutyukkel mindig mellefogok... (:

ui2: mar vannak, ma csinaltam oket

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it is hard not to write. too many things happen.after being in uyuni i was longing for getting to la paz. it was a terrible 14-hour bus drive, much worse then the argentinian ones. without heating (which really counts in this altitude), air circulation, lights. i got here at 7 am., quickly found a hostel and started to explore the city.
this is simply amasing!!! a city at the altitude of ~3600 m, surrounded with houses on the hills, with the view of a 6000 m high snowy summit... it is charming despite the smog, dirt, crowd and continuous car horns. anyway, cars never stop, so one must be extremely careful when crossing the street.next mission: mountainclimbing. the easiest 6000+ m high peak is in bolivia called huayna potosi, so i decided to give it a try.
the first day we went up with a car to the base camp, which is 4700 m above the sea level. this way a day for acclimatization: we went out ice climbing and praticing on ice. it was not easy, but it was high time for me to do it, so i really enjoyed!
on the second day the task was to climb from 4700 to 5130. this does not sound a big altitude difference, but in this height it definitely is. i really suffered, but we finished it in 2 hours. i was still happy about being in the unheaded hutte. i had problems with acclimatization, i had a serious headache. i was not sure if i could do the next day. even though i was above 3000 m for more then a week and took herb tea and more, it did not solve all my problems.
third day we woke up atmidnight, so the previous day we went to sleep at 5 pm. at 1 am, after breakfast (can i call it breakfast at all??) we left. i had no appetite at all, my stomach was a total mess. anyway, i need energy, so i forced myself to eat at least a bit. put on the boots and started in total darkness. after 100 m of climbing i threw up. it was not my best day. some rest and we went on.
i could climb another 10 meters and felt that that was the last point. i had to give it up. it was a terrible feeling and i could hardly believe that i failed. but with diarrhoea, pain and dizziness i could not climb another 850 m in this altitude. it was too much to conquier the peak... ):
the failure itself was even worse then the current feelings i had. it was against my way of life or such...
the guide led me back to the hutte and gave me the key. i went to the toilet - outside of course - and when i got back to the entraqnce door, i noticed that i locked myself out!!! noooooo!!!! can you imagine the feeling? right there, totally sick, 2 am, dark and cold, alone on 5130 m, noone around, no phone, no blankets... how could i do that?
there was a small and windy tent in front of the building, which functioned as a kitchen. i tried to hide there. i tried to figure out what to do to get this night over as well as possible. i tried to open the door with a cable, checked all the windows, but could not get in. i built up a little asylum in the tent, but after an hour i felt that this could not work until morning.
i saw a window above the door. i measured, that i could reach the lock, if i broke the window. so i took a stone - finally something i had enough of - and broke the window (although a wuite weird feeling!!!). i was in the house!!!!
anyway, this day deserves an exclusive position in the top-ten worst nights in my life (:
the guide told me, that during his praxis of 8 years he never had such a story... :P
anyway, i am back to civilisation, and now i dont feel like climbing for a while. but i learned one thing for sure: to say no, if i am beyond my limits...

ps: no pictures now as i have a virus on my memory card. it seems, that whatever i buy in these countries all have the same shit...

ps2: some pics are uploaded

altiplano

atertem boliviaba. szepen gyulnek a pecsetek az utlevelemben. (: felertem 3000 m fole, es mindenfele gyogymod ellenere megszenvedtem egy brutal fejfajassal. hiaba, nem vagyok en ehhez hozzaszokva...

de legalabb tuleltem a karnevalt. nem volt egy nagy durranas, de biztosithatok mindenkit, hogy bolivia bevetelenek nagy resze a lufikbol es a fujhato hab spray-kbol all. a karneval nagy resze abbol allt ugyanis, hogy a gyerekek vizzel teli lufijai es a spray-k elol menekultem (:

ami meg szep a dologban, hogy egeytlen zeneszam megy folyamatosan, es arra vonulnak fel az emberek.

befizettem egy ujabb turara: 4 nap, terepjaroval. nagyon megerte, meg ha utalom is oket. 2 autoval voltunk, 10 turista (nemet, svajci, angol, argentin, holland, dan stb...), 2 sofor + 2 szakacs. merthogy helyi kajat kaptunk vegig.

a terulet, amit bejartunk: az altiplano, vagyis magasfold, lenyugozo. az egesz terulet 3500 m felett van (ha jol emlekszem). lattunk emut, vikunyat, lamat (lama steak-et ettunk is. finom!!!), flamingokat, meg nehany allatot meg tutira nem ismertem fel.es lattunk vulkant, pampat, feher lagunat, kek lagunat, piros lagunat, zold lagunat, laktunk a leheto legegyszerubb hazban es sohotelben, furodtunk termal forrasban nem semmi kilatassal, megneztuk a sosivatagot napfelkeltekor (a harom napbol ketszer fel 5-kor keltunk!!!) meg nehany gejzirt, volt 42 fok es 10 is, esett, havazott, sutott a nap, volt 5 defektunk (persze a ket auton osszesen)...

a masodik nap szallasanal talaltunk egy focipalyat, es gyorsan ki is hivtuk a helyi boliviaiakat egy meccsre. nem tudom, sportoltatok-e mar 3700 m magasan, de ha meg nem, es nem szeretnetek 2 napig tarto tudofajast 5x3 perc szaladgalas utan, akkor ne is tegyetek! (:

azert megerte, mert lottem egy golt, es egesz este a helyiek dicsereteit zsebelhettem be (:

ime egy kis izelito a latottakbol:

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i arrived to bolivia. there are more and more stamps in my passport (: i reached the altitude of 3000 m, which caused me a terrible headache despite that i chewed quite a lot of coca leaves. anyway, i am not used to it...

but survived the carnival. it is not a big deal, but i am sure, that a significant percentage of the income of bolivia comes from foam sprays and balloons, that kids fill up with water. in total the carneval was not more then trying to escape from the above mentioned 'attacks' by kids...

the other lovely thing in the carneval is that the whole week you listen to one song which gives the background music for the festival.

i went to another tour: 4 days with a jeep. it was a great 4 days!!! we went with two jeeps, 10 tourists (english, danish, holland, german, argentinian etc...), 2 drivers and 2 cooks. as we got local food during the journey.

the area we were at is altiplano, meaning high land. it is just gorgeous! the area is above 3500 m (if i remember well). we saw emus, vichunyas, lamas (even had lama steak!), flamingos, and some others i dont know...

and we saw vulcanos, pampas, white laguna, blue laguna, green laguna, red laguna, lived in the simplest room ever and in a salt hotel, had bath in a termal bath with an amasing view to the mountains, saw the salt desert in sunset (we had to wake up at 4:30 twice!!!) and some geysers. sometimes it was 10 degrees and sometimes 42, it was raining, snowing, sunshine, we had 5 flat tyres (but the two cars together)...

there was a football field near our accomodation on the second day, so we immediately went to play with locals. i do not know if you ever played football at the altitude of 3700 m, but if not, and do not want a constant pain in your lungs for 2 days after 5x3 minutes game, then do not do it! (:

it was still worth it as i scored a goal ((:

some pictures of what we saw:

eszak-argentina / north agrentina

24 (!) oras buszut utan megerkeztem salta-ba. ebben az utban az volt a szep, hogy nem alltunk meg utkozben. volt wc a buszon (no comment) es kaptunk enni is, igy ok ugy tartottak jonak, hogy ennyivel be kell ernunk.
befoglaltam 2 egynapos turat, teljesen szervezettet. pont olyat, amit lefikaztam az elozo blogban: ulunk a buszban, a szep helyeken megallunk fotozni stb. :P de mindenek ellenere meg kell kovessem magam, mert megerte, foleg az elso nap. talan azert is, mert olyan helyekre vitt el, ahova csak autoval tudnek szervezett tura nelkul menni. elso nap: salta-cafayete. persze lemerult az elemem, amit az elso bolt elhagyasa utan vettem eszre... nem baj, fejben fotozok! (kesobb lett elem, igy kepek is...)
egeszen lenyugozo a kornyek. voroslo hegyek es zoldello novenyzet egyuttesen (foleg a brea noveny). neha azt erzem, hogy a festo osszecserelte az ecseteket, amikor ez keszult.megneztuk a ´garganta del diablo´ masodik kiadasat (az ordog torka, az elso a vizesesek torkolatanal volt), hallgattuk a semmiben ucsorgo koldust zenelni, felmasztunk egy kisebb dombra, ettunk argentina legjobbnak kikialtott fagyizojaban, ahol feher es vorosbor izu fagyit is adnak
a buszon kaptunk helyi mate teat, amit kicsit maskepp kell elkepzelni, mint az otthoni filteres verziot. egy poharka tele, de tenyleg tele van teafuvel, es arra ontenek kb fel deci forro vizet. egeszen utos, hogy fel lehet tole ebredni. mivel az orszag teljes kulturajat be akartak mutatni, igy kokalevelet is kaptunk ragcsalni. allitolag tele van vitaminnal, es frissito hatasa van. ja, es jo a magashelyi betegseg ellen is. (amugy itt uton-utfelen lehet kapni, es nem is ember, akinel nincs egy jo adag keznel...)
mire visszaertem a hostelbe, az uj szobatarsaim foztek vacsit. es mit varhat az ember argentinoktol, ha nem steak-et?!? komolyan, eletem legjobb steak-je volt!!! wow...
este (11-kor, mert itt kicsit kesobb indul az elet) elmentunk egy helyi etterembe, ahol folklor musor volt. ez is nagyon ott volt, bar engem kicsit frusztralt hogy sokunkbol csak en nem beszeltem spanyolul. de majd egy honap mulva...
masnap eszaknak indultunk, ahol megneztunk megint egy csomo mindent - komoly melo lesz felidezni, hogy mi hol is volt tulajdonkeppen.
de amikre emlekszem:
a 7-szinu hegy es egy tunderi kisfalu: egy kaktuszkert es a korulotte talalhato asatasok: es egy borkostolo, de azt nem tartottam tul erdekesnek lefotozni.
termeszetesen itt is volt egy ´garganza de diablo´, de mar nem emlekszem, hol...
humahuaca-ban akartam maradni estere, de a konyvvel ellentetben, ami argentina leginkabb inka hatasait hordozo falujanak irja le, en inkabb egy poros kis falunak talaltam teli arusokkal, akik ugyanazt aruljak. ugyhogy este meg atkeltem a hataron. de boliviarol majd legkozelebb.
ja, elhagytam a telefonom, ugyhogy ne pazaroljatok ram az sms-eket (:

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24-hour bus and i am in salta! this was a nice ride as the driver never stopped for more then 2-3 minutes. we got food on the bus and had a toilet (no comment-type :P), so they decided that we would not need any more stops.
i went to 2 one-day tours, totally organized... exactly the kind that i found really poor in my previous blog: sitting in the bus, stop for taking pictures etc. anyway, i have to admit, that it was worth it especially the first day. maybe because we were taken to places where i could not get by myself. first day: of course i forgot to recharge my batteries, so taking pictures in my head only (later on i could buy some, so there will be pictures)
the scenery is amazing here! red mountains and green plants (brea bush especially!!!). sometimes i think that the painter switched the colours (: we visited the ´garganta del diablo´ nr II (first one was at the iguazu falls), listened to the songs of the begger in the middle of nowhere, climbed up to a smaller hill, ate in the best ice cream place of argentina, where they sell flavours of red and white wine too! we got mate tea on the bus, which is quite different from the mate i drink at home. at least the amount of the used grass. here a glass was full, and less then a deciliter of hot water was put on top. it really woke me up!!! we also got some coca leaves to try. it is told to be full of vitamies and refreshes, plus helps you to get over the altitude sickness. the leaves are available here everywhere, and the one does not have any is not even counted... (:
by the time i got back to the hotel, my roommates prepared some food - steak of course! what else in agrentina? that was the best steak in my life! we went to a reastaurant in the evening (at 11 pm, when life starts here) and saw some folklore musik, and tango etc. that was amasing! i was a bit frustrated that i was the only one who is not fluent in spanish, but maybe in a month...
next day heading to the north. again lots of nice things - it will be hard to remember everything. but the ones i can recall:
7-colour mountains and a cute little village:garden of cactus plus some archeological sites: of course there was a place called ´garganza de diablo´, but no idea which...
i wanted to stay in humahuaca for the night, but despite lp explanations, as this is the most inca village in agrentina, i rather found it a sleepy dirty village full of shops selling the same stuffs for tourists - so i went on to bolivia. but that is another story
oh, yeah, i lost my mobile, so dont waste money on sending me sms (:

H2O

sao paulo, repter: vegre! el sem hiszem, hogy itt vagyok! 34 fok, full paratartalom, alig elek. kicsit sokkolo a -10 meg a sok snowboardozas utan... de valahogy majdcsak megszokom :Psp-ban nem sok minden van a turista szamara, igy csak egy ejszakat maradtam. azert ez a hely arra mar boven eleg volt, hogy megcsapjon del-amerika szele. (:

aztan 15 oras buszut iguazu-ba, ahol 275 vizeses meg egy kis oserdo varja a turistat. osszepacsiztam 2 sved lannyal, akikkel egyutt megneztuk a brazil oldalt, ahol a vizeseseket messzirol lehet latni, majd atmentunk a hataron, es masnap megneztuk a vizeseseket kozelrol. nem irok tobbet, inkabb feltoltok nehany fotot... (sajna sokat nem tudok, mert lassu a net)

es nem beszelve az allatvilagrol:

tukan

pillangok

majom

kormoran (?)

ooo, es ennek nem tudom a nevet...

de lenyeg, hogy mindet en fotoztam, eloben. nem is gondoltam volna, hogy az allatfotosdi ennyire erdekes lehet (:

a hostel halali: van uszomedence, legkondi, meg reggeli. persze mindez a csillagok szamanak megfelelo szinvonalon (: de imadom, nagyon hangulatos. egyebkent is: argentina elso latasra szerelem!!!

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sao paulo, airport: finally! i cannot believe that i am here! 34 degrees, unbelievable humidity, i can hardly survive. especially after -10 and snowboarding... but somehow i will handle it :P

there is not much in sp for a tourist, so i stayed there for one night only. but it was enough to get a taste of south-america... (:

then a 15-hour long bus to iguazu, where one can see 275 waterfalls. there is a distant view from the brasilian side and a closer one from the agrentinian side. i joined two swedish girls to see both sides and the jungle as well. that´s enough, i rather upload some pictures - above as well: and the animals, wow!
tukan
butterflies
monkey
cormoran (?)
ooo, and i have no idea what the last one is... (see all the pictures above as i cannot upload them twice)
hostel is cool: swimming pool, air conditioning, breakfast. i did not know before that this is regular in south-america. i love it! anyway, argentina is love at first sight (:

parizs szep / paris is nice (:

hat igen... kicsit deja du erzesem van, mert az elozo blogom is valahogy igy kezdodott...amsterdam, atszallas mindossze 55 perc alatt, es estere mar a melegben vagyok. nem gond, menni fog. rohantam, ahogy csak tudtam, vegig 4 terminalon keresztul, es odaerve nagy elegedetten bealltam a sorba, amikor is a mar otthon megvaltott beszallokartyamat visszadobta a gep. egy kis keresgeles utan kozoltek velem, hogy ujra lett foglalva a jegyem, faradjak at valahova mashova. ott kozoltek, hogy este 8-kor indul a gepem parizsba, onnan pedig ejjel sao paulo-ba, mivel lekestem a gepet!!! de mondom ott voltam idoben, mi az, hogy lekestem?!? erre sok valaszt nem kaptam, es az ellenkezojerol sem tudtam meggyozni oket...annyit elertem, hogy kaptam egy kajabont, es delutan 3-ra atraktak a parizsi jegyem, igy az eiffel-torony meg eppen belefert. igaz, csontta fagytam, mivel en mar brazilra oltoztem, de azert nem volt rossz. (:kozben azert nehany aprosagra feny derult, mint peldaul arra, hogy a telefonszamaim egy resze a telefonom memoriajaban maradtak - otthon (: -, tobbek kozott az itteni szallasadoime is, a fenykepezogepbe a kicsi memoriakartyat hoztam el, a kolcsontelefonom halozatfuggo, igy itt nem tudom hasznalni stb...
nehany szoban sao paulo-rol: zold, zold, zold es zold minden! feludito az otthoni szurkeseg utan. es vagy 35 fok... rohad le az emberrol minden. persze, ezt nem panaszkodasnak szantam (:
a kaja nagyon jo, bar meg csak izlelgetem a kinalatot
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yeah... my previos blog started a bit similar...amsterdam, transfer in 55 mins and i will be in brazil by the evening. no problem, i just do it. i ran through 4 terminals and was very satisfied when queued for the sao paulo flight. but for some reason my boarding pass was rejected and i was told that they rebooked my flight. after some discussion it came out that i had to fly to paris and late night to sp because i missed the flight!!! i totally disagreed as i was there on time, but no explanation like this helped...
loosing one day etc, but having a chance to see the eiffel tower in paris! it was freaking cold as i was prepared to the weather in brazil...some additional missing preparation made the beginning of this trip a bit more difficult:
1. i did not have all my phone numbers with me as some of them were saved on my phone, that i left at home - including my host's here in sp (:
2. i took the 128MB memory card to the camera which is not enough for anything at all...
3. i could not find my trekkin sandals. for some reason in this city people don't know such things, so after a long walk i had to buy the only similar available model
4. the phone i got for this trip can only use one hungarian network, so it cannot be used here :P

some words about sp: green, green, green and everything is simply green!!! refreshing after home's grey colours. and 35 celsius... i am swet and suffering from the heat... but of course this is not a complain :P:P:Pfood is great even though i only tasted a few things until now... but no doubt i will love it!